I've spent the better part of the week in email exchanges with Todd at Intense and Don at SLP with my SLP header leak issue. Here'* a lesson to be learned -

The SLP headers were not intentionally designed for H-Platform body. The guys at Intense found the header and adapted it for use on the H-Platform body with no problems and offered it on their web site. (You do need a different Trans stick - W-Body). Because the headers were not specifically buit for a 2000 SSEi, SLP says there is not much they can do for me. They did offer to have me take the headers off, and the crossover pipe and send it back to them where they will check it in a jig for form, fit and function. They had no interest in sending me a new set, and then me sending the current set back and I can't be without a car for two+ weeks. So...

...I have a brainstorm and think that I can get the leak at my rear header collector sealed with VersaChem Inferno Metal Repair (2000F).

The leak is where the crossover pipe enter the rear header assembly at the collector. The receiving pipe is split to allow the pipe band/clamp to seize into the collector pipe where it enters the collector. The split that is leaking is on the inside of the pipe and the rear header collector assembly prevents easy access. The pipe band/clamp cannot slide any further back on to the crossover acceptance pipe, beacuse of the rear header collector bend. It'* almost like the pipe is too short or the slits are too long.

My plan of action is to loosen the pipe band/clamp, slide it out of the way, goop up the splits with the VersaChem, put the pipe band/clamp back in place, use a 620Ft LB impact wrench and beat the clamp down like a rented mule, let it cure for 15 minutes, heat the headers up, impact again and then let it cure for two hours.

Space is tight and mirrors and double jointedness will need to be deployed.

Anyone think my plan of action is frought with disaster?
Anyone have similiar luck with chemcial metal bonding repair agents?

As a possible plan of action, can the cross over pipe be removed. then cut in half. Put both ends in and clamp them down. This would leave a gap in the middle of the crossover pipe. Then have that area filled. Or am I missing something?

Nope..not missing anything Dan. I was going to post a photo, but I can't get a good one to show whats going in.

The crossover pipe cannot go any further into the rear collector. It'* bottomed out. The collector has two opposing slits cut into it to allow the crossover to slip into it and then give the clamps an area where they can actual bite in and clamp down. The slits appear to be cut to long, or the collector is too short. With the band on there is just a whisper of that slit that is open (because the collector cannot go in any further; and hence the leak. I impacted the strap today with a 300ft LB wrench and it made a slight improvement, but under load the annoying leak distracts from what could be a bodacious header rumble.

Did this help any?

I think I understand now. The pipe is flared and then slit to allow the other pipe to fit inside and then clamp down. Slits are to long. Sounds like a defective header to me. Personally, I would have it welded and be done with it. Is that a option? I just don't know how much I would trust a bonding agent. When I was a kid my dad did his exhaust on his van using flex pipe. Then he wrapped it with something that looked like paper machie. It didn't take long for it to start leaking.

The first option was to weld it. Can't get a stick in there...no room!

A defective header is exactly what I think. Try telling that to the SLP sales manager who happens to be an engineer. Grrrrrrrrrr...Did I ever mention how much I hate exhaust leaks.

Is there enough room to fit a wire welder in there? You might need to pull that header off and do a repair. Then put it back on. I know it'* a pain. But if it'* not done right, there'* always the chance it will not work and will be even more work to fix. On the positive side, the studs are all fresh and will come off nice and easy.

It'* just too tight on the inside slit. Can't get the welder nose in deep enough to fill the gap where it needs it. One option might be to try and fill the gab by welding it from the inside the pipe with a stick....sigh....not too positive how that will work.

If this stuff doesn't work then I don't think I'll be any worse off and can then try the header pull, weld from the inside, etc.