Hans's Buildup.....Going Fast Without Spending Too Much....
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From: Twin Falls, Idaho

Originally Posted by agrazela
Get the tuner now...as in first...before you buy any additional parts. Learn tuning, then add parts one-at-a-time and tune them in.
Originally Posted by Rogue
Originally Posted by agrazela
Do CompCams 105#'* instead of 90# LS6 springs. I've read too many horror stories around 90# springs with their high spring rate (timing component wear, cam wear, snapped valves, etc.). And don't forget viton valve seals.
Would there be any problem with running 105s with just 1.9s?
I know others have had problems when they have a cam and 90s...but I'm not sure I've seen any cases with the 1.9+90# combo caused problems. I want to make absouletly sure before I order. I dont mind spending a bit extra for an added sense of security. The cost difference between the 105s and a full engine rebuild is significant.
In my situation the only way I'd go cammed is with ported heads.
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From: Lethbridge, Alberta, _______Canada._______ West Coast Bonneville Fest ___05,06,07 Survivor___

Ive been running 1.9 Yella Terras with 105 lbs comp cams springs..for about 16,000 kms now, no issues.
I love beating a dead horse... If you honestly want to take this car into the 12'*, it'll be A LOT easier with a cam. There are plenty of procedures online, as well as the books for our cars that go into detail the cam install.
Originally Posted by Hans
Down the Road Still when i want to run 12.9-13.1ish:
Ed
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From: Twin Falls, Idaho

Originally Posted by BonneMeMN
I love beating a dead horse... If you honestly want to take this car into the 12'*, it'll be A LOT easier with a cam. There are plenty of procedures online, as well as the books for our cars that go into detail the cam install.
I'd rather do the IC thing first then if I was not happy with that I'd go the cam+heads route.
Right now I'm just trying to decide if I should go with the LS6 or the 105 springs...
Fellow cam lover... thanks for the lack of inclusion on the 3.4 Gen V club there Ed. (Won't have a 3.4 long..don't worry
)
Hans..I've got the S1X and know others running the VS and XP on stock heads. The future potential is there to swap the heads and make a ton of power. My cam was technically my first. TJ'* was his first with help. Ed'* was his first. Point is that in your car a cam is quite easy. It'* a little behind the water pump. They give you some nice dots to line up (tough to mess up, trust me..I tried and only succeeded on the flywheel which you won't touch).
While the intake is off for gaskets, the cam falls right in.
Now.. on to what Andy said. He'* 100% right on the tuning. It'* amazing how much potential your car has in programming. Let'* remember the cars were tuned to run in Arizona'* sizzling temperatures to Alaska/Canada'* snow cone fridgidness. Tuning for your local area is a huge help. I only wish I had tuned and learned to tune earlier. Had I tuned, the first time I went to the track I would have posted my timeslip instead of saying.."I can do better".
Once you change throttle bodys. You'll need a MAF sensor for the N*. LQ4 is a well known and informed decision.
Hans..I've got the S1X and know others running the VS and XP on stock heads. The future potential is there to swap the heads and make a ton of power. My cam was technically my first. TJ'* was his first with help. Ed'* was his first. Point is that in your car a cam is quite easy. It'* a little behind the water pump. They give you some nice dots to line up (tough to mess up, trust me..I tried and only succeeded on the flywheel which you won't touch).
While the intake is off for gaskets, the cam falls right in.
Now.. on to what Andy said. He'* 100% right on the tuning. It'* amazing how much potential your car has in programming. Let'* remember the cars were tuned to run in Arizona'* sizzling temperatures to Alaska/Canada'* snow cone fridgidness. Tuning for your local area is a huge help. I only wish I had tuned and learned to tune earlier. Had I tuned, the first time I went to the track I would have posted my timeslip instead of saying.."I can do better".
Once you change throttle bodys. You'll need a MAF sensor for the N*. LQ4 is a well known and informed decision.
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From: Twin Falls, Idaho

Originally Posted by BillBoost37
While the intake is off for gaskets, the cam falls right in.
I dont see how pulling the intake would make a difference. will pulling the motor make the job any easier or just do it through the passenger side fenderwell?
How is the timing chain removed from these cars? I've seen timing belts before with a tensioner but never the chain.
Are the stock rockers ok to use? Just get better springs/pushrods/retainers and be good to go?
Where is a good step by step writeup?
Yes that was my first cam install, but I did have some help. Even if you have a older family member who swapped a cam in their muscle car way back when they would probably helpful. It'* not hard at all!
The cam will give you power across the entire power band while rockers will do most (maybe 2/3 what the cam will) of their magic up top in the rpm band.
Rockers (Yella Terra Roller Rocker & Pushrod Package)
Rockers: $400
Springs: $ 99-135
Rocker arm bolts: $ 20
TOTAL: $519-555
Cam (Intense Stage 1X blower)
Cam: $300
Springs $135
Cam install kit: $104
JP Timing Set: $ 79
Manley retainers$ 30
TOTAL $648
About 100ish difference between the two
I’m not sure about pulling the motor in the 2k+ models but I would think it would just complicate things for you; being that it would only be more to do.
You slide the chain and sprockets on at the same time then your tighten your cam bolt.
I’m using stock rockers, push rods and I’m pretty sure Boosty is too. I’m not going to do rockers and pushrods till I get my heads. Yeah better Springs, Manley retainers (for the extra clearance.)
Once I get my trans and dyno tune I will be using that 3.4” as a paper weight on my desk!
The cam will give you power across the entire power band while rockers will do most (maybe 2/3 what the cam will) of their magic up top in the rpm band.
Rockers (Yella Terra Roller Rocker & Pushrod Package)
Rockers: $400
Springs: $ 99-135
Rocker arm bolts: $ 20
TOTAL: $519-555
Cam (Intense Stage 1X blower)
Cam: $300
Springs $135
Cam install kit: $104
JP Timing Set: $ 79
Manley retainers$ 30
TOTAL $648
About 100ish difference between the two
Originally Posted by Hans
will pulling the motor make the job any easier or just do it through the passenger side fenderwell?
How is the timing chain removed from these cars? I've seen timing belts before with a tensioner but never the chain.
Are the stock rockers ok to use? Just get better springs/pushrods/retainers and be good to go?
How is the timing chain removed from these cars? I've seen timing belts before with a tensioner but never the chain.
Are the stock rockers ok to use? Just get better springs/pushrods/retainers and be good to go?
You slide the chain and sprockets on at the same time then your tighten your cam bolt.
I’m using stock rockers, push rods and I’m pretty sure Boosty is too. I’m not going to do rockers and pushrods till I get my heads. Yeah better Springs, Manley retainers (for the extra clearance.)
Originally Posted by BillBoost37
Fellow cam lover... thanks for the lack of inclusion on the 3.4 Gen V club there Ed. (Won't have a 3.4 long..don't worry
)





