Firming up the turns etc (new post) - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


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Old 05-27-2007, 05:07 AM   #1
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Default Firming up the turns etc (new post)

Hey, new here. My car didn't come with a rear bar so I finally went and got one. After doing a lot of research and cross referencing part numbers, I had a good I idea of what I was gonna get. I was looking for the rear 20mm bar from a Park Ave Ultra or SSEi. I also heard that a Caddy Seville had a thicker 22mm bar, but wasn't sure if it would fit. So, I went down to the junk yard, and lucky me, they had a 99 STS there. I bought it for $50 yes, the whole car, .... jk (very nice considering a new one is $150) with just some surface rust and a couple incomplete endlinks (and complete brackets). I know there were changes for 2000, but I kind of mocked it up and it looks like it'll fit.

Naturally, now my problem is I don't have any end links. I was on jegs and found some Prothane ones http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store...62164_-1_10059 but to me the nipple part of the bushings doesn't look long enough. It seems like there would be a gap inbetween them due to the thickness of the control (swing?) arm and the bar end, allowing the bolt to hit both and slop around. I know a lot of people keep mentioning Energy Suspension, but on jegs, they don't have any universal or rear links. The main reason I put that link in there is so that one of you nice people can, as per their directions, measure both dimension "A" and just the collar (if I want to go with Energy). I'm gonna call Prothane and ask them why the black ones are so much cheaper, because on their site they say that the only difference IS the color that must be some expensive dye. What do you guys think?

Last question. Does anyone make poly bushings for the rear bar? It'* an odd style, with it being a one bolt and kinda squarish.
Oh, and what should I torque them to?
Thanks for the help!

*Edit/Note: The bars don't have to be both parallel and horizontal, just parallel when the car is sitting on the ground as it normally would. If your bars aren't normally parallel, then you have an oops

Thanks again. The sooner I get this info the sooner I can end the body lean!
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Old 05-27-2007, 10:21 AM   #2
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Old 06-05-2007, 05:54 PM   #3
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Aww, c'mon people, I'd really appreciate it. Seriously, I have paypal, I'll give you a couple bucks. That'* a dollar for every minute it'll take, that'* right I'll pay you $60/hour for 2-3 minutes!
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Old 06-06-2007, 04:29 AM   #4
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as far as i know, people just got the factory replacement rear endlinks and just bought the individual endlink bushings by energy suspension at autozone.

i hope thats what you were asking.....its late so :P
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Old 06-10-2007, 12:00 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DarkShadow
as far as i know, people just got the factory replacement rear endlinks and just bought the individual endlink bushings by energy suspension at autozone.

i hope thats what you were asking.....its late so :P
Uh, nope. I'm asking for someone to put the rear end of thier car on ramps, go under it, and measure dimension A as described above. Make sure the tire to wheel well distance is the same as when it'* on the ground (so that the swing (control) arms and sway bar stay parallel) When I put mine up on ramps to try and guestimate dimension A, I found that there was only about 1/16in. of a difference in the before and after tire to wheel well dimensions. (sounds confusing, just make sure the ride height is the same)

However, I couldn't get the bar over the control arms. I can get it over the sub frame, but then the ends are under the arms. It doesn't fit if you try to swoop it over the arms and around, the springs/shocks are in the way. Do I have to take one side of the suspension apart just to get the damn thing on? That would really suck. I don't want to buy oem endlinks just for a dimension, then buy aftermarket ones. That just doesn't make sense.

It will literally take less than 5 mins to measure, and I have money. Be as accurate as possible. (I probably don't need to say this, but the center line of the control arm is only the thickness of the material, not the side wall of the arm that'* bent over.)
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Old 06-10-2007, 10:33 PM   #6
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Awe man! You've got to be kidding me! I just looked at a writeup that someone created after they did the same thing on their aurora, and the bars do go on the bottom! Dang! Now I'm at college and don't have any way to get the rear end of the car up. Still, if you could, measure 'em and make sure they are on the bottom for our cars too.
Thanks.
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