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Old 11-22-2005, 11:42 AM   #11
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Your alternator spins all the time and puts out a set amount of voltage depending upon your rpms. It doesn't require more HP if the system draws down more amperage. However, too much draw-down can cause your available voltage to get low enough to harm your system components. I don't know the alternator on bonnies, so they may have enough extra to power the water pump.

Only if your electric load gets too high will it make a difference. Then you would have to get a larger alternator or a smaller alternator pulley. Either of those WOULD take back some of the HP gain you get from the electric pump.

I do know that many people successfully use electric water pumps to gain those few extra HP.
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Old 11-22-2005, 11:52 AM   #12
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Supposed to be 3-5hp from what I recall. The primary advantage would be for those that go to the track often. You can circulate and cool with just the ignition and fans on. Motor doesn't have to run.

I've heard rumors that our 3800 belt-driven water pumps cavitate at WOT too.
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Old 11-22-2005, 11:54 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by willwren
Supposed to be 3-5hp from what I recall. The primary advantage would be for those that go to the track often. You can circulate and cool with just the ignition and fans on. Motor doesn't have to run.

I've heard rumors that our 3800 belt-driven water pumps cavitate at WOT too.
Hmm.. Something else to consider on the next car. Thanks Bill and Bill.
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Old 11-22-2005, 12:21 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by willwren
Supposed to be 3-5hp from what I recall. The primary advantage would be for those that go to the track often. You can circulate and cool with just the ignition and fans on. Motor doesn't have to run.

I've heard rumors that our 3800 belt-driven water pumps cavitate at WOT too.
Now that interests me greatly. I saw a little something on mine when I swapped it out. Made me think something had rubbed on the part behind the actual WP but in a manner I couldn't piece together from the WP postioning and movement. I know I definately gain 10 degrees in any weather on a quick spurt of WOT.

Where the WP sits..there'* a round indented area...to the left side ..see the shiney marks?
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Old 11-27-2005, 10:28 PM   #15
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hmmm, this is very interesting.
My current water pump is on its last leg(grinding noise of death) so I'm going to need a new one here anyway and the electric ones seem pretty nice. Problem might be is that I have a series I engine and from the looks of how the belt goes(only a single belt, non-SC) if I just deleated the WP then that would shorten the belt drastically(like a foot) and really reduce the ammount of contact it has with the crank, which I'd assume is not advisable. So my question is, has anyone tried these with a series I or know of a way that it would work. Any insights appriciated
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Old 11-27-2005, 10:58 PM   #16
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I put new belts on today, and it seems a Series I L67 can bypass the WP pulley. Don't know about NA.
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Old 11-28-2005, 12:32 AM   #17
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Well, lets see if this helps.

Couldn't get a good pic down in there, but I think the diagram will do just as good.

I'm not really seeing an good way to do it, but please correct me if I'm wrong
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Old 11-28-2005, 12:48 AM   #18
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Go straight from the crank to the AC. You lose significant belt wrap around the crank pulley. Similar case to the SC routing.
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Old 11-28-2005, 01:34 AM   #19
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Seems to me by the looks of the diagram, with the less surface area the belt covers on the crank, youd figure the HP would be less?
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Old 11-28-2005, 01:40 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chad V
Seems to me by the looks of the diagram, with the less surface area the belt covers on the crank, youd figure the HP would be less?
You'd get less grip.. It wouldn't affect hp unless it started to slip. My electric wp only gives a little more belt wrap on the crank pulley then if the diagram above were to bypass the wp. With a Gatorback belt I don't get any slip. On mine, instead of the belt going up from the crank pulley to the p/* pulley it goes in the direction of the tesioner.
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