FWIW, too rich can be just as bad for performance as too lean. Ideal would be 14.8:1 or so (14.6 being best for fuel economy). Does the chip go farther than that? Good like finding documentation or proving it.

While the O2 is ignored during WOT, the major portion of your performance is during accelleration or GETTING to WOT, and the MAP and MAF sensors are also HUGE factors in the calculations we're talking about. The PCM will not be fooled for long.

I gaurantee you that there are ZERO current members of this quite large forum running one of those ebay chips.


Think about that.

Hey, I didnt say it would work well, notice I dont have one, Im just saying there is an ever so slight potential.

Even during acceleration the system is in open loop, whether its WOT or just halfway there.

Would I buy one? No. Would I encourage someone else to buy one? Absolutely not

Its just for all these years I thought the O2 sensor would notice the changes, but then it occurred to me, it wouldnt be the 02 sensor because its ignored, so there is the slightest chance. But like you said theres many other sensors that come into play.

All these years ive been here, and willwren your posts can still come off as quite defensive and agitated haha.

Not agitated or defensive at all, nor was I correcting your post. Just trying to drive the point home firmly.

My biggest pet peeve is people that get tricked into flushing their money for little or nothing.

On the Series 1 motors, there is no MAP (other than for a boost indication on the L67'*), so you can gain (get this) TWO DEGREES of timing by doing this. About 5hp tops. But that'* ONLY if they set that resistor to be DEAD COLD. Your fuel economy will suffer horribly in daily driving.

On the Series 2 cars with a MAP sensor, the MAF and MAP working together can actually determine IAT in a way, negating any timing advance on the OBD2 vehicles. The only benefit would be a POSSIBLE richer mixture, but how rich is the question.

Yeah, if you want the same effect, just unplug your IAT sensor. That'* right, unplug it. The computer sees this as -40 degrees celcius and adds a whopping... wait for it... 4 degrees of timing!!! Which produces no more than 10 HP, and that'* only until the knock retard kicks in and it'* all gone.

I'm not recommending anyone does this, just trying to show you what a waste of time these "chips" or "race pellets" as ZZP calls them, are.

FWIW the PCM doesnt listen to input from the 02 sensor when under WOT, which is when most people would be looking for that extra "performance" so I think there is a scant possibility that they could work.

They trick the PCM into richening the fuel mixture right? But the only sensor that can tell that difference is the O2 sensor, which is ignored during WOT/Open Loop mode.

Its just something that occurred to me the other day, probably while I was on the john or something.[/quote]

While your computer at WOT does ignore the O2 sensor.. If your running rich all the time, your computer will try to lean out the a/f at WOT.
It bases it'* Power Enrichment trim on your closed loop fuel trims.

If you want a similar effect, find a way to keep the body of the IAT from heatsoaking in a hot engine compartment. You'll get more consistent power that will be less affected by hot engine temps.

But performance is ALSO affected by ECT'*.

Actually, for the members that run heat shielded short rams, this isn't hard at all. Just move the entire IAT inside the heat shield on a bracket, rather than leaving it attached THROUGH the shield.
Those of us with FWIs might benefit from a bit of heat tape around the IAT body.

Actually, on a supercharged car it will only add 1* of timing (on some years it doesn't add any timing IIRC), which is approx 2-3hp, and that is if there is no KR. On an N/A car it is 3-4 degrees depending on year which as you said is around 10hp. (however 10hp on an N/A setup would be a nice gain) Like you said, unplugging the sensor gives the same gains, however it also sets the SES light which is what the "chips" eliminate.

ZZP'* race pellet actually has a different resistor value then these other chips, setting the intake air temp to -30* instead of the -40* that unplugging them does. This is why theirs only works with their PCM'* (or a PCM that has specifically had the timing added at that IAT temp), because their IAT table adds 4 degrees of timing for the -30* value. Do I think its worth the money, no since it is just a resistor, however the power gains are there due to their PCM being programmed for it.

Oh cool, I didn't know that about the ZZP PCM. Interesting. That'* actually a good idea.

Thanks for all that info, I definetly won't be buying one of those "performance chips" Have you seen the electric superchargers that are on eBay for around $70? Do these work at all? I wish that I bought a supercharged bonny for the performance. I do love mine though. What could I do for performance gains (without going into the engine)?

Thanks,
BumpinBonneville17