Yes!!! The corners are cleared. A dremel and boiling water. Dremel to get a place to start and then the boiling water broke the adhesive down pretty well. There is probably a set of ebay euro cleareds in my future. One of mine had a bad crack to start from a deer run in. Just wanted to see if I could do it on the cheap for now. Powerball and some PlasticX and they shine like new.

Does anybody have a cool bulb for the cleared? I'm using the Sylvania amber 194 sprayed silver. It'* kinda' wimpy. Any goodlooking strong ones out there?

Also gutting the box this weekend for a K&N drop in. Any advanced tips besides "don't screw it up". I don't want end up at Scotty'* U-Pull-It yard on a weekend looking for a new box.

what is this 'plasticx' and where did you get it?

you can use Silverstar blubs but they are expensive....id stick with teh 194 w paint, that is what i did, and it looks better MO

With guting the airbox. I'd suggest only gutting the front section.. I can't really see the rear section flowing well with it'* smooth transition taken out. So, chop the whole rectangular front off and take the insert out of the front. I think that would flow the best.

It is Meguiar'* plastic cleaner and polish. (I spelled it wrong it is "PlastX"). I works fine, I haven't tried others.
edit: You can get it at AA or Autozone etc. There are others but I haven't used them so i can't comment on whose is "best"

Not to jack my own thread, but the Mother'* Powerball is the real killer. They have had similar to it in body shops, but they were cloth balls and difficult to maintain. This thing is really rugged spongelike material. It attaches to a handrill. i have used it on bring back light covers and to remove scratches on my plastic/rubber bumpers.

I see a lot of other possible uses for it. I was going to put up a thread with a screaming endorsement, but I haven't used it enough due to cold and rainy weather..

i don't believe there is a Silverstar in the 194. There are some around that make outlandish claims. You know, in goes a few watts, and out comes a floodlight. There might be a 194 that has a proprietary silver coating. The 194 is itself, not much of a bulb. So I can see limited opportunity for it by manufacturers.

Thanks 95. After reading everything, it seemed the strategy was to get as much volume flow into the filter as possible without creating too much turbulence as it goes out the back.

I'll see how it goes. I'm thinking of surrounding the box etc with reflectix painted with a ceramic additive. It'* an insulator, plus it reduces sound (if the wife takes exception to a more regal sounding engine )

I've seen and done the full gut. Which is pull front piece and open the hole up to the size of the plastic rectangle, remove inner front guts and then remove rear guts.

I agree about the rear guts...however if you pull them as well then you have a larger initial volume stored there to pull in before your have to pull through the front opening.

That last part make sense, if not I'll try to explain it better.

how wouldit have a larger initial volume? as long as the car is on the intake is a vaccum, wont be storing air

I think I know what you are saying. There is more "readily available" air? Particularly good if you punch the throttle. I really have to pull it apart and look. The 2 best articles with pictures of the L36 boxes don't have the pictures any longer. I have been itching to get at this. Want to try to get maximum but balanced pressure on the full surface of the filter. There is probably some law of diminishing returns. Just like a 3" rice pipe is max over a 4+" rice pipe.

One thing is for sure. All that resonator/baffle crap in the box makes that stinky folded hose to the TB a non issue. That'* not saying much for the stock insides.

I will probably start in the front and move along incrementally.

Thanks for your thoughts. It really gets my wheels turning in my head. Now if I just get that wheels turning on the ground...