Corners are clear ,,,, bulb? and any tips for the box gut
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Corners are clear ,,,, bulb? and any tips for the box gut
Yes!!! The corners are cleared. A dremel and boiling water. Dremel to get a place to start and then the boiling water broke the adhesive down pretty well. There is probably a set of ebay euro cleareds in my future. One of mine had a bad crack to start from a deer run in. Just wanted to see if I could do it on the cheap for now. Powerball and some PlasticX and they shine like new.
Does anybody have a cool bulb for the cleared? I'm using the Sylvania amber 194 sprayed silver. It'* kinda' wimpy. Any goodlooking strong ones out there?
Also gutting the box this weekend for a K&N drop in. Any advanced tips besides "don't screw it up". I don't want end up at Scotty'* U-Pull-It yard on a weekend looking for a new box.
Does anybody have a cool bulb for the cleared? I'm using the Sylvania amber 194 sprayed silver. It'* kinda' wimpy. Any goodlooking strong ones out there?
Also gutting the box this weekend for a K&N drop in. Any advanced tips besides "don't screw it up". I don't want end up at Scotty'* U-Pull-It yard on a weekend looking for a new box.
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With guting the airbox. I'd suggest only gutting the front section.. I can't really see the rear section flowing well with it'* smooth transition taken out. So, chop the whole rectangular front off and take the insert out of the front. I think that would flow the best.
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Originally Posted by NERV
what is this 'plasticx' and where did you get it?
edit: You can get it at AA or Autozone etc. There are others but I haven't used them so i can't comment on whose is "best"
Not to jack my own thread, but the Mother'* Powerball is the real killer. They have had similar to it in body shops, but they were cloth balls and difficult to maintain. This thing is really rugged spongelike material. It attaches to a handrill. i have used it on bring back light covers and to remove scratches on my plastic/rubber bumpers.
I see a lot of other possible uses for it. I was going to put up a thread with a screaming endorsement, but I haven't used it enough due to cold and rainy weather..
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Originally Posted by 1993 SLE
you can use Silverstar blubs but they are expensive....id stick with teh 194 w paint, that is what i did, and it looks better MO
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Originally Posted by 95naSTA
With guting the airbox. I'd suggest only gutting the front section.. I can't really see the rear section flowing well with it'* smooth transition taken out. So, chop the whole rectangular front off and take the insert out of the front. I think that would flow the best.
I'll see how it goes. I'm thinking of surrounding the box etc with reflectix painted with a ceramic additive. It'* an insulator, plus it reduces sound (if the wife takes exception to a more regal sounding engine )
#8
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I've seen and done the full gut. Which is pull front piece and open the hole up to the size of the plastic rectangle, remove inner front guts and then remove rear guts.
I agree about the rear guts...however if you pull them as well then you have a larger initial volume stored there to pull in before your have to pull through the front opening.
That last part make sense, if not I'll try to explain it better.
I agree about the rear guts...however if you pull them as well then you have a larger initial volume stored there to pull in before your have to pull through the front opening.
That last part make sense, if not I'll try to explain it better.
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Originally Posted by BillBoost37
I've seen and done the full gut. Which is pull front piece and open the hole up to the size of the plastic rectangle, remove inner front guts and then remove rear guts.
I agree about the rear guts...however if you pull them as well then you have a larger initial volume stored there to pull in before your have to pull through the front opening.
That last part make sense, if not I'll try to explain it better.
I agree about the rear guts...however if you pull them as well then you have a larger initial volume stored there to pull in before your have to pull through the front opening.
That last part make sense, if not I'll try to explain it better.
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Originally Posted by BillBoost37
I've seen and done the full gut. Which is pull front piece and open the hole up to the size of the plastic rectangle, remove inner front guts and then remove rear guts.
I agree about the rear guts...however if you pull them as well then you have a larger initial volume stored there to pull in before your have to pull through the front opening.
That last part make sense, if not I'll try to explain it better.
I agree about the rear guts...however if you pull them as well then you have a larger initial volume stored there to pull in before your have to pull through the front opening.
That last part make sense, if not I'll try to explain it better.
One thing is for sure. All that resonator/baffle crap in the box makes that stinky folded hose to the TB a non issue. That'* not saying much for the stock insides.
I will probably start in the front and move along incrementally.
Thanks for your thoughts. It really gets my wheels turning in my head. Now if I just get that wheels turning on the ground...