Colder t-stat myths

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Jul 2, 2003 | 04:20 AM

#41

willwren

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Jstpsntym

Quote:

Originally Posted by dbtk2

Quote:

what if we have high summer temps and sub-zero winter temps???

I am in Michigan and basically have the same weather as you. I understand exactly where you are coming from there. The IDEAL transmission cooler setup would be a small transmission cooler mounted in front of the radiator, but with a Thermostat or a driver controlled switch and guage. That way if it had a thermostat it could open and close with the temperature like the engine thermostat does, that way it never gets too hot or too cold. The thermostat would be more ideal because it would be automatic and the driver could lose attention or forget about it and not turn it on. But the driver controlled switch would work if you wanted to turn it on and off all of the time. You would have to have a transmission temperature gauge in the car, and when it hit a certain temperature (180-200*F) the driver would turn the switch on, then when the temps went back down to like 160 or 180 they would turn the switch off. But, I am thinking that if someone were to install a tranny cooler with a 180 degree thermostat it would be ideal. That is probably the only way I would install a tranny cooler on any car I owned.

I totally agree. After installing a tranny cooler, the first thing that you notice is that milage goes to **** during the winter. This is due to the fact that the tranny cooler does too good of a job during the winter. If the tranny temp does not get up to a certain level, then the tranny will not allow the torque converter to lock out. This is not a big deal, unless your route to/from work takes you quickly on to an interstate. Looking at your tach and seeing upwards of 1000 RPM more that usual at 65MPH until the tranny warms up is not a good feeling. BTW, the coolant temp in my Olds had to get to 146 deg. F before the T/C would lock out. On "real" cold days, that may never happen until several miles at highway speeds.

Jay

Jay is right on here. I've seen this on my own cars before. My simple fix is to simply cover part of the trans cooler in the winter with a small piece of cardboard. Keeps you from being tempted to remove it in cold weather, and you still have it come summertime.

Jul 2, 2003 | 11:54 AM

#42

2000SilverBullet

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2000SilverBullet is on a distinguished road

Quote:

I'll catch you in 20 years..... But for the time being Can I have the Firebird....

Let us know how much power you gain with the removal of the EGR

I don't really expect to gain any noticeable power but do expect that it will keep the throttle body and supercharger cleaner...and if I go with an intercooler, keep it cleaner too for effective long term heat transfer.

I'm keeping my Bird for now. It is a much more visceral driving car. The punch you in the face kind when you step on the go pedal.

I read a great article in a HotRod mag today bout adding a huffer to it and converting it to EFI with aluminum heads....hmmmm...that should put it into the 11'*
Actually it'* turning more into a show car now. It'* always been garage kept and I have never driven it in the winter, let alone wet roads.

Jul 2, 2003 | 01:53 PM

#43

dbtk2

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Joined: May 2003

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From: Holt, MI & Lima, OH

Quote:

Let us know how much power you gain with the removal of the EGR

As he already said, the purpose of the EGR removal is not to gain power, but is rather to just keep the throttle body, supercharger, intake manifold, etc.... clean. It shouldn't hurt or help performance, and I have heard that it will lower gas mileage 1mpg, but we didn't notice that in the GTP, I actually think if anything the MPG went up a little. And as he said, it really helps to keep the intercooler clean also. (If the car has an intercooler)

Jul 29, 2003 | 11:45 AM

#44

hairbear21

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From: South Dakota

Quick question. I have the 4T65E-HD, and I was wondering if there are any issues with heat on these tranny'*. Also, I found 2 different 180* stats for my car - a standard type and then a reverse poppet. Which type to I get? I'm sure that they do the same thing, but do they do it in the same way?
I wanted to comment on going with a stat that was too cold. I had a 160* stat in my '94 Jeep (it was a turd and I was experimenting), and I always got a "coolant too low" code. Plus, in traffic it would overheat like a bitc*!

I never changed it, but I know from experience that you don't want to go too cold. I think that 15* is fine, but 35* is WAY too much of a change without programming.