Yea, I was thinking the same thing. The flex of the engine alone on a body / frame mounted supercharger might cause some problems. Now, if someone could design a bracket that bolts to the motor, but stick out to where the bettery is, and is belt driven, well, then we might have a solution.

I'm still up for the idea of putting 10-15 batteries in my trunk, and just buying 20-30 of those electrical fan, intake hose supercharger thingy'* off e-bay. I'm sure it would be a much more powerfull, cleaner and nicer install. :P :P

I like your way of thinking.

Ty

Actually, I've been running "Dark Duck Racing" for quite a while now ... I've got the MN Tax number from 2001 when I turned 18 and could be a legal proprietor.

And it'* not coincidence that people who know things about cars drive Bonnevilles. The 3800 is rock solid, the Hyramatic proves it can take a beating, and for their size they handle quite well. They're a damn good car that'* cheap to run.

Now, back to the topic. The transfer shaft used by many FWD supercharger kits really isn't as cumbersome as it looks at first. however, when I changed the SHO from this setup to one using a Self-oiling paxton that didn't use the shaft a few things happened:
(1) Boost came on sooner and smoother
(2) It eliminated a nasty shake which happened at 5000+ RPMs
(3) They both has similiar wheels but I was seeing 2 psi more with the same pulley.

-Duck

-Duck