he said he wanted tire smoke not reliability

He'* not going to have tire smoke if he keeps doing one-wheel-wonders and busts his differential.

if you keep the rpms low enough i can spin both in the rain then go up in prms from there

And a lighter car, and you deliver your peak torque at a lower RPM. No comparison, feets.

Let me re-emphasize the trans...your gonna kill it TRYING to smoke the tires. As Wren has already said and I have experienced this also. Your gonna toast your differential.

Lookie here...
Broke the differential pin.

you think thats bad? should have seen what came out of the trans the diff was BOMBED!!!!!!! i mean the shop that rebuilt it though it was soo funny i did not do it btw the other owner did no idea how but the diff was in all parts of the trans ...i am makeing my self sound like a mad man over burnouts i have a 5sp sunfire and i pull up the ebrake and dump the clutch and SSmoke this monster i get a chirp and off i go i want it so if i push the E brake and romp the gas the tires smoke and off the line i dont need a smoke show i just want the tires to spin i will see what i can do

http://videos.streetfire.net/video/9...7d01210675.htm

lol when my car is cold it will spin the CRAP out of the tires how does that work? but when warmed up nothing

well revving a COLD engine as it is, is not a good idea cylinder wear is outrageous when engines are cold. and the most likely reason is the same reason that people here run lower thermostats, when your engine is cooler, not COLD, but cooler, the air going into the cylinders is cooler, the combustion chamber is cooler, therefore helping along your octane rating, allowing timing to advance to its full potential. when an engine gets up to full op with a normal thermostat, you're still gonna have some KR at wot, even in tuned up cars. thats simply why they feel SLIGHTLY peppier when cold. I could be wrong, but thats what i know. thats why in high performance cars, you run a cooler stat, you run colder plugs, a true cold air intake, and high octane fuel, to combat kr, to maximize the amount of spark advance to maximize the hp output

as far as doing burnouts, these cars have most their weight over the drive wheels, improving traction significantly, to overcome that, you've got to get either more power to the wheels or just raise the gear ratio as previously mentioned.

just a little more advice from the peanut gallery, why would you want to A. wear out your tires. B. murder your diff and C. waste money. just so you can have a smoke show? IMO, if you want burnouts, get a RWD car, you don't have to overcome so much weight, you can hold the brake on and only be resisting against the drums, making it much easier than resisting against your discs, all i know is, FWD cars weren't meant to do that. the power is certainly there, i have run my car into third gear in a spinout in the rain with barely any effort, it was of course, not intentional, but i'm just not sure why you would want to deliberately destroy the small amount of reliability these transmissions have. if you really want to start doing burnouts, play it safe. get a custom limited slip differential, a higher final gear ratio, a higher stall TC to get you into the powerband before throwing it into the wheels, otherwise you are feeding them too fast and it slows down the progress of the revving engine. this is why you could do burnouts with your 5 spd, because you can drop the clutch in the powerband and instantly shock the wheels with power. and since those smaller engines have rather tall gears, it doesn't take alot usually to shock them into a spin.