my thermostat was sticking on intial startup. i swapped it out with a 195 my dad had at home, and nows it been running like a 180. Doesn't seem to get about 190, and i hit some stop and go traffic everyday. my old stat would linger around 200-205

The new engine only has 27k on it and when they put it in I amagin that they put all new antifreeze in when they replaced it. The engine was only in the car for 5,000 miles so far. My problem was that the fans weren't kicking on till the temps were at 210 or higher, and one time that I was timing this they didn't come on till 225. Now I am no expert to what controls the fans. I know when the new engine was was put in the PCM was replaced with a brand new one so I dont think thats the problem. If this was a problem before and the engine was running at 210 to 225 with the fans kicking on at 220 to 225, then this may be what have cause the firsts engine intake failure. I know that when I went from the 195 to the 180 it was still running between 200-225. I really forget the exact numbers. It wasn't till I set up the fans to run when you turn on the ignition that the engine would finally run at a steady 180-190.

I still suspect a problem. Either a plugged core on the radiator, or a blocked passage in the block somewhere. This is way far from normal. Consider getting the radiator flow tested. That'* the most likely culprit.

Is there a way that a blockage could be taken care of without replacement of the radiator? The ratiator is still in excellent shape. Also what can be done for a blocked block passage? Flush?

The radiator may LOOK excellent from the outside, but what does the core look like? Are there any blockages? Have you considered trying to reverse flush it yourself?

I'm serious about this. I think you have a major flow problem. Your car shouldn't be running that hot.

I agree. I have actually never done radiator flush before. How would you recomend doing it? I will flush it myself if you can give me the how to. I would like to get this taken care of without having to get a new radiator or taking it to a shop. Its running 1t 180 now, so theres no emergency, but I do want to fix this problem.

Here'* what I'd do if you wanted to save some money:

1. Drain your coolant from the radiator and block. (to satisfy the EPA)

2. Remove COMPLETELY the upper and lower radiator hoses from both ends.

3. Wrap a clean wrag around a garden hose, and insert another wrag in the upper radiator outlet. Turn the hose on FULL BLAST. This will REVERSE flush the radiator, draining out the bottom.

4. Remove the belt from the engine so you can rotate the water pump by hand.

5. Remove the thermostat. Insert the hose/rag combo into the lower manifold where the thermostat is normally seated. Turn the hose on. This will REVERSE flush the block while you manuall rotate the water pump.

6. Put everything back together, and fill the system with the proper mix of coolant/water.

Keep in mind, this will only benefit you if you have DEBRIS clogging passages in your block or radiator. It won't help if corrosion in the core of the radiator is the problem. In either case, it would help ALOT if you ran a coolant flush product from your local auto parts store through the system.

Should this be in Techinfo?

Yeah, if this isn't in techinfo already is sure should be, really helpful info. Thanks Bill. I might do this friday when I do my trans cooler.

And that was from memory while......imbibing in refreshments. On that note, can anyone who sees ANY discrepancies in that procedure please humiliate me publicly so that I know the information is accurate before posting in Techinfo?

Thanks!

Yeah thats a pretty good idea bill. Another option is to remove it and take it to a local radiator shop. I took mine to Performance Rradiator which is a local company, boy it came back cleeeaaaannn, even looking inside looked almost brand new. It used to have greenish residue from coolant, no more. Best part is the cost: $37 .