2000 bonneville cold air intake - Page 4 - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


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Old 01-29-2010, 06:31 PM   #31
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The only problem I would have, is making a 45 degree elbow for where it goes throw the firewall otherwise it would be a good turn out. If anybody hads any roughly 45 degree elbows that is 3" od, let me know. There would have to be patience with ordering and turn around time. 2 weeks tops. But I have to find elbows first.
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Buy regular 90* elbows and just cut them in half.
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Old 01-29-2010, 06:32 PM   #32
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Alright guys if its ok with the admins. I will sell these for 150.00 shipped. That includes all shipping costs. I'm not sure on all years and makes and models, but I know my 95 olds 98 has the same type of intake as the bonneville. The one above is for my 2000 bonneville se.
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Old 01-29-2010, 06:34 PM   #33
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Buy regular 90* elbows and just cut them in half.
Would that leave enough length on the turn for the clamp to fit on? I'm picturing him cutting down the middle of the turn.
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Old 01-29-2010, 06:37 PM   #34
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Sorry mouse! I ment 90 degree angles. My cost to make these is about 85.00 so, I'm asking 150 shipped. Your color of paint is a additional 5.00. Will come red as pictured if not specified.
If you guys are serious, shoot me a pm with details and we can talk.
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Old 01-29-2010, 08:06 PM   #35
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Color of my car please!

Man, now I gotta come up with money for this too! Cool thing is though that I can do my headlight swap and intake all at the same time.
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Old 01-29-2010, 08:49 PM   #36
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Alright. Moose I gotta order the cold ait intake first, then one received, I will get the rest ready so I can get it out the same day I receive it! I have to get the elbow figured out first. I can get 3 inch from carquest, but it had the ribs on the inside where its bent, not sure if anybody cares, I doubt it will decrease air flow my very much. Let me know if it matters or not. Moose, will the color of my intake be ok? I didn't see a darker red.
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Old 01-29-2010, 09:13 PM   #37
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Hold off on making one for me for a bit. I'll find you the right color paint first. That, and I also need my headlights first.
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Old 01-29-2010, 09:18 PM   #38
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Alright, keep me posted bud, the faster I know and get the money from you, the faster you can go faster and have fun with the whining sound! I wanna hear a sound clip to.
Craig
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Old 01-30-2010, 12:53 AM   #39
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I've kinda been thinking about this thread and the thin wall aluminum piping. Aluminum has one of the highest thermal conductivity ratings for most metals. Though you've moved the intake to an area where cooler air can be drawn into the motor, you've increased the total surface area of metal subjected to convection heat from the engine. Cold air being drawn across a hot pipe, makes for warm air.

In order to be absolutely more efficiecnt in moving cooler air, you need to use a material that is insulated better from the heat such as CPVC pipe or use the thin wall aluminum pipe covered with a couple layers of header tape. Also a heat sheild below the TB will keep the heat from the crossover away.

Fenderwell intakes use rubber tubing that has an insulation value greater than thin walled aluminum, and that'* why you see so many of those kits for sale and in use.

So if you really and truly want to the cooler denser air to fool your PCM into adding fuel to your piston charge, the more insulation you can provide on the delivery tube, the better off you'll be.
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Old 01-30-2010, 01:35 AM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Purplehazeir View Post
I've kinda been thinking about this thread and the thin wall aluminum piping. Aluminum has one of the highest thermal conductivity ratings for most metals. Though you've moved the intake to an area where cooler air can be drawn into the motor, you've increased the total surface area of metal subjected to convection heat from the engine. Cold air being drawn across a hot pipe, makes for warm air.

In order to be absolutely more efficiecnt in moving cooler air, you need to use a material that is insulated better from the heat such as CPVC pipe or use the thin wall aluminum pipe covered with a couple layers of header tape. Also a heat sheild below the TB will keep the heat from the crossover away.

Fenderwell intakes use rubber tubing that has an insulation value greater than thin walled aluminum, and that'* why you see so many of those kits for sale and in use.

So if you really and truly want to the cooler denser air to fool your PCM into adding fuel to your piston charge, the more insulation you can provide on the delivery tube, the better off you'll be.
The actual JMB Kit is fairly heavy steel, most likely to make it harder to become heat soakd quickly, but in daily driving scenarios it really doesn't matter what its made of, it will eventually heat soak, and the aluminum will be the best to shed the heat absorbed once you get some high air flow from something like highway driving.

When I Build mine, I am going to use some healthy aluminum tubing, about 3.25 or even 3.5 inch wrapped in reflective foil from DEI.
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