Three 2001 Aurora Problems
#1
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Three 2001 Aurora Problems
Hello All, I hope things are good with you today. I have a couple issues to fix and hoping someone can lead me in the right direction.
I have a 2001 Oldsmobile Aurora.
Problem:
1. Check Engine Light. the picture attached is showing what a guy told me was the problem. I'm not sure what this part is called. I also tried Sea Foam (which he suggested) to maybe remove any water or bad gas. He also told me to always use premium gas, that can cause a check engine light, which I never heard of before.
2. Fuel gauge stays at the top until it'* about empty. I better not be too far from the pump when that happens so I have to watch how much fuel is used to make sure I don't run out of gas.
1. the back windows don't go up and down. I see that some places charge less than 50.00 and others over 200.00 (maybe it the brand), which the images really vary. Maybe the best thing on this is to take if off and carry it to the parts place to make sure it'* correct ?
Thanks and let me know if I need to brake this into 3 different post.
I have a 2001 Oldsmobile Aurora.
Problem:
1. Check Engine Light. the picture attached is showing what a guy told me was the problem. I'm not sure what this part is called. I also tried Sea Foam (which he suggested) to maybe remove any water or bad gas. He also told me to always use premium gas, that can cause a check engine light, which I never heard of before.
2. Fuel gauge stays at the top until it'* about empty. I better not be too far from the pump when that happens so I have to watch how much fuel is used to make sure I don't run out of gas.
1. the back windows don't go up and down. I see that some places charge less than 50.00 and others over 200.00 (maybe it the brand), which the images really vary. Maybe the best thing on this is to take if off and carry it to the parts place to make sure it'* correct ?
Thanks and let me know if I need to brake this into 3 different post.
#2
Senior Member
True Car Nut
- What diagnostic codes showed up when the car was scanned?
- Probably need a new fuel level sender unit on the fuel pump that is mounted in the gas tank.
- Take the door trim panel off, pull the electrical connector from the power window motor, and use a multi meter to see if there is 12 volts at the connector when you activate the switch.
#3
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Thanks for the reply
1. I don't remember. I'll check it at home and let you know hopefully tomorrow
2. is there anywhere to get instruction for this task? and maybe with pics?
3. I can hear the motor running but it just makes a noise like something is rattling in the door
I can do about anything except rebuilding an engine or trany. Just as long as I can get my hands on it and it doesn't require a lift.
1. I don't remember. I'll check it at home and let you know hopefully tomorrow
2. is there anywhere to get instruction for this task? and maybe with pics?
3. I can hear the motor running but it just makes a noise like something is rattling in the door
I can do about anything except rebuilding an engine or trany. Just as long as I can get my hands on it and it doesn't require a lift.
Last edited by scoot28; 04-18-2016 at 02:01 PM.
#4
Senior Member
You don't have to drop the fuel tank to do this job....You remove the carpet trim in the trunk.....will find an oval shaped access cover....remove.....below that you will find the fuel pump module....
Disconnect the fuel lines and electrical connectors.......there is a special tool to remove the lock ring....but hitting the tangs with a blunt tool will unlock it....then you pull complete module out to replace the level sender....install a new o-ring seal.....usually comes with the new sender....
If you hear the rear motor work, but the window doesn't move, chances are the cable is broken on the window regulator....you will need to transfer the old motor to the regulator.....
Get the codes for question one......use the grade of fuel recommended by the owner'* manual....
Disconnect the fuel lines and electrical connectors.......there is a special tool to remove the lock ring....but hitting the tangs with a blunt tool will unlock it....then you pull complete module out to replace the level sender....install a new o-ring seal.....usually comes with the new sender....
If you hear the rear motor work, but the window doesn't move, chances are the cable is broken on the window regulator....you will need to transfer the old motor to the regulator.....
Get the codes for question one......use the grade of fuel recommended by the owner'* manual....
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#5
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Thanks Tech II
it sounds like replacing the level sender will be simple enough. And probably the window regulator will be as well.
I would have already gotten the codes but I'm installed Windows 10 on my computer and my ELM327 code reader is being a little stubborn to recognize my usb port. If I can't get it to work in the next couple of day I'll take it to AutoZone and let you know.
Thanks for the help
it sounds like replacing the level sender will be simple enough. And probably the window regulator will be as well.
I would have already gotten the codes but I'm installed Windows 10 on my computer and my ELM327 code reader is being a little stubborn to recognize my usb port. If I can't get it to work in the next couple of day I'll take it to AutoZone and let you know.
Thanks for the help
#6
Senior Member
True Car Nut
When removing the retainer ring that holds the fuel pump in place, you will notice tabs around the outside of the ring you can use as strike points. Hit one side than the other to remove the ring. If possible, use wood or brass as your striking tool so you don't cause a spark.
When you remove the door trim panel to replace the window regulator, you will notice a sheet of plastic stuck to the inner door sheet metal. This is held in place by butyl. This is sold in rolls in various diameters and can be purchased at auto body supply stores on online (Ebay). You want 3/8" or 1/2" diameter. Take careful note (pictures) of where the old butyl was routed, and make sure to route the new butyl the same way. If you don't route the butyl correctly or don't seal that plastic sheet correctly, you could end up with water leaks.
When you remove the door trim panel to replace the window regulator, you will notice a sheet of plastic stuck to the inner door sheet metal. This is held in place by butyl. This is sold in rolls in various diameters and can be purchased at auto body supply stores on online (Ebay). You want 3/8" or 1/2" diameter. Take careful note (pictures) of where the old butyl was routed, and make sure to route the new butyl the same way. If you don't route the butyl correctly or don't seal that plastic sheet correctly, you could end up with water leaks.
#7
Senior Member
Chances are if that water shield was never removed before, you can carefully peel it back, just what you need to remove the regulator, and reuse it....may need some more butyl to seal it though....I believe everything is bolted in place.....
Disconnect harness to motor, tape window in up position, remove bolts holding window to regulator, remove regulator, transfer motor to new regulator....
Disconnect harness to motor, tape window in up position, remove bolts holding window to regulator, remove regulator, transfer motor to new regulator....
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scoot28 (04-22-2016)
#8
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Good advise. thanks Tech II
I was browsing for a regulator and all that I have found comes with the motor. Wonder if there'* a company selling it without the motor at a lower cost? I guess at 50.00 I just as well buy it with the motor and not have an issue with that part later on.
I was browsing for a regulator and all that I have found comes with the motor. Wonder if there'* a company selling it without the motor at a lower cost? I guess at 50.00 I just as well buy it with the motor and not have an issue with that part later on.
Last edited by scoot28; 04-22-2016 at 08:41 AM.
#9
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Good morning all. I was able to read the codes this morning, which are as listed
P0122
P0410
P0717
Please let me know if you know what to do about these..
Btw.. 2kg4u, thanks for your last reply. I appreciate that
P0122
P0410
P0717
Please let me know if you know what to do about these..
Btw.. 2kg4u, thanks for your last reply. I appreciate that
Last edited by scoot28; 04-23-2016 at 09:09 AM.
#10
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Well, my level sensor came in so it looks like I'll tackle that this weekend.
Also checking to see if you got a chance to review my obd codes ? Anxious to know your thoughts.
Thanks
Also checking to see if you got a chance to review my obd codes ? Anxious to know your thoughts.
Thanks