Thinking of buying lo miles 1999 Olds 88
#11
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Yeah, I've got the oil cap. Just had it off when I took the photo. Nice to know I can drive this for a few miles and still get a couple of bucks out of it. It might turn out to be the one car I didn't lose money on.
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CorvairGeek (03-02-2021)
#12
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My burgundy 1997 Olds 88 was one of the few cars that actually paid for itself. I replaced the water pump, the upper intake manifold and the battery. I generally buy these cars for about a grand. If something major like the transmission were to fail then I just cut my losses and find another one on Craigslist. I've replaced quite a few Upper Intake manifolds since 2005 on all of my 3800 cars. The one to buy is made by ATP. You can find it at Rock Auto or Amazon. It'* cheap insurance for your engine.
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jrmyers (03-03-2021)
#13
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My burgundy 1997 Olds 88 was one of the few cars that actually paid for itself. I replaced the water pump, the upper intake manifold and the battery. I generally buy these cars for about a grand. If something major like the transmission were to fail then I just cut my losses and find another one on Craigslist. I've replaced quite a few Upper Intake manifolds since 2005 on all of my 3800 cars. The one to buy is made by ATP. You can find it at Rock Auto or Amazon. It'* cheap insurance for your engine.
#14
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True Car Nut
Looks like 1996 puts it in the 4T-60e era. No major concerns on those, except that they usually enjoy life better with an auxiliary cooler, and coupled with an adjustable vacuum modulator adjusted slightly to the firmer side, they still fair pretty well. Just remember the differentials are weak, and should not be abused (avoid 1 wheel peels and shock loads).
Also, as you are aware, get the UIM/LIM gaskets addressed with good coolant, and you should be well ahead of the game.
Also, as you are aware, get the UIM/LIM gaskets addressed with good coolant, and you should be well ahead of the game.
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jrmyers (03-04-2021)
#15
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Looks like 1996 puts it in the 4T-60e era. No major concerns on those, except that they usually enjoy life better with an auxiliary cooler, and coupled with an adjustable vacuum modulator adjusted slightly to the firmer side, they still fair pretty well. Just remember the differentials are weak, and should not be abused (avoid 1 wheel peels and shock loads).
Also, as you are aware, get the UIM/LIM gaskets addressed with good coolant, and you should be well ahead of the game.
Also, as you are aware, get the UIM/LIM gaskets addressed with good coolant, and you should be well ahead of the game.
Also, the engine compartment is filthy (dust, mostly) and I'd like to clean it up then watch for any coolant or oil leaks. Can the engine bay be pressure washed?
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jrmyers (03-04-2021)
#18
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I agree about the transmission cooler. The bigger the better.
On mine, I routed the lines: transmission >> my big giant cooler >> factory in-radiator cooler >> transmission
I figure that this way I'd have a hard time getting it too cold . . . like when I'm buzzing along at 80MPH in 20 below zero, I bet that fluid gets cooled off really well, but then gets warmed up a bit when it gets to the radiator.
Regarding the pressure washing: I tend to agree. some of it can be done safely if you're careful, but that'* still iffy. As the car gets older it gets iffier as heat takes it'* toll on plastics.
On mine, I routed the lines: transmission >> my big giant cooler >> factory in-radiator cooler >> transmission
I figure that this way I'd have a hard time getting it too cold . . . like when I'm buzzing along at 80MPH in 20 below zero, I bet that fluid gets cooled off really well, but then gets warmed up a bit when it gets to the radiator.
Regarding the pressure washing: I tend to agree. some of it can be done safely if you're careful, but that'* still iffy. As the car gets older it gets iffier as heat takes it'* toll on plastics.
#19
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Thread Starter
I agree about the transmission cooler. The bigger the better.
On mine, I routed the lines: transmission >> my big giant cooler >> factory in-radiator cooler >> transmission
I figure that this way I'd have a hard time getting it too cold . . . like when I'm buzzing along at 80MPH in 20 below zero, I bet that fluid gets cooled off really well, but then gets warmed up a bit when it gets to the radiator.
Regarding the pressure washing: I tend to agree. some of it can be done safely if you're careful, but that'* still iffy. As the car gets older it gets iffier as heat takes it'* toll on plastics.
On mine, I routed the lines: transmission >> my big giant cooler >> factory in-radiator cooler >> transmission
I figure that this way I'd have a hard time getting it too cold . . . like when I'm buzzing along at 80MPH in 20 below zero, I bet that fluid gets cooled off really well, but then gets warmed up a bit when it gets to the radiator.
Regarding the pressure washing: I tend to agree. some of it can be done safely if you're careful, but that'* still iffy. As the car gets older it gets iffier as heat takes it'* toll on plastics.
#20
Senior Member
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jrmyers (03-06-2021)