Ball joints
01-21-2011, 08:13 AM
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Ball joints
Tools -
* Ball joint fork = 9$ at Advance Auto Parts
* Large adjustable wrench = $14 at Lowes (Kobalt)
* Piece of pipe to slip over wrenches and break things loose
* Breaker bar = $18 at Advance Auto Parts
* Pitman arm puller = Free rent from Advance Auto Parts
* Ball joint removal tool = Free rent from Advance Auto Parts
* Grease Gun = $20 numerous places
* Full set of sockets
* Large Crowbar
* Good heavy hammer
* Large socket for axle nut, mine was 35mm
* I don't know how much your parts are going to be. I bought all mine off ebay I think my total after everything was $80 for OEM.
3.) BALL JOINTS
* The smartest way to do this is to replace both upper and lower at the same time, but I didn't have the money at the time to do both so I had to be careful and do just the lower.
* Remove your wheel, and them remove the two large bolts that hold your brake caliper on and set it up on the upper control arm out of the way.
* Remove the brake rotor, remove the tie rod end from the spindle, and your spindle should turn with ease back and forth.
* Now, follow your brake line to a small metal bracket with a plastic clip on one end holding another line (speed sensor). Use a small set of pliers and squeeze the clip for the speed sensor to remove it from the bracket
* Remove the 1 10mm bolt that holds the bracket to the spindle, and remove the Allen key bolt from where the speed sensor enters the spindle. You will have to wiggle it out, but once you do, you can lay it back behind the upper control arm, and this also gives you the ability to tie strap your brake caliper to the back of the fender well and out of your way.
* Now, nothing should be attached to your spindle and it should move freely back and forth. Take a small flat head screwdriver, and remove the metal cap on the hub. You can now take your large socket, 35mm in my case, and take the nut off the end of the axle.
* The only thing holding the entire assembly to the control arms is the upper and lower ball joints now. Loosen the nut on the upper ball joint but do not remove it, take it down to the last couple threads, and put your ball joint fork under the rubber grease boot and tap it easy as to not rupture the boot. It should pop out for you, and the nut will stop it from falling.
* The lower ball joint will be done the same way. Loosen the nut to the last few threads, and stick your fork between the grease boot and spindle ear. You can hit it on in there since your replacing it, and it should pop free. Once free, if you use your hand you can push down on the upper control arm to remove the nut from the upper ball joint, and pick up on the spindle to remove the nut from the lower. Now you can maneuver the spindle til you get it free from both ball joints and the axle. I just picked up on the upper and pulled the spindle out, and wiggled it off the bottom one.
* Time to break out the Ball joint removal tool. Follow the instructions and place the correct sleeves where they need to be on the top and bottom of the lower ball joint. Once ready to tighten the tool, if you don't have an air gun, I turned the tool til it rested on the lower control arm for stability, and cranked down on it with my breaker bar and the piece of pipe. Took some serious muscle, but it broke free of the control arm.
* You will need to use the tool to press the new ball joint in as well. Just take your time and use good judgment with the pieces you are using. There is a small indention on the control arm where you will have access to the grease fitting once the new ball joint is installed. Take note of that, and remember to not install the grease fitting till you have the ball joint in and set in the correct place. If the tool slips or you do use the wrong sleeve or cap you will damage that fitting and risk breaking it off in the ball joint and it will just fail from no lubrication. Once installed, you can install your grease fitting, but DO NOT grease it before re-assembly of everything.
* Re-assembling everything is pretty much reversing the removal. My upper ball joint was lubed pretty well which causes the shaft on it to spin when tightening the nut, so I used the ball joint tool to push the spindle up on it a bit so it would I could tighten it good. Also, just in case, wipe the sensor off before reinstalling to remove any dirt that may be stuck to it.
* Ball joint fork = 9$ at Advance Auto Parts
* Large adjustable wrench = $14 at Lowes (Kobalt)
* Piece of pipe to slip over wrenches and break things loose
* Breaker bar = $18 at Advance Auto Parts
* Pitman arm puller = Free rent from Advance Auto Parts
* Ball joint removal tool = Free rent from Advance Auto Parts
* Grease Gun = $20 numerous places
* Full set of sockets
* Large Crowbar
* Good heavy hammer
* Large socket for axle nut, mine was 35mm
* I don't know how much your parts are going to be. I bought all mine off ebay I think my total after everything was $80 for OEM.
3.) BALL JOINTS
* The smartest way to do this is to replace both upper and lower at the same time, but I didn't have the money at the time to do both so I had to be careful and do just the lower.
* Remove your wheel, and them remove the two large bolts that hold your brake caliper on and set it up on the upper control arm out of the way.
* Remove the brake rotor, remove the tie rod end from the spindle, and your spindle should turn with ease back and forth.
* Now, follow your brake line to a small metal bracket with a plastic clip on one end holding another line (speed sensor). Use a small set of pliers and squeeze the clip for the speed sensor to remove it from the bracket
* Remove the 1 10mm bolt that holds the bracket to the spindle, and remove the Allen key bolt from where the speed sensor enters the spindle. You will have to wiggle it out, but once you do, you can lay it back behind the upper control arm, and this also gives you the ability to tie strap your brake caliper to the back of the fender well and out of your way.
* Now, nothing should be attached to your spindle and it should move freely back and forth. Take a small flat head screwdriver, and remove the metal cap on the hub. You can now take your large socket, 35mm in my case, and take the nut off the end of the axle.
* The only thing holding the entire assembly to the control arms is the upper and lower ball joints now. Loosen the nut on the upper ball joint but do not remove it, take it down to the last couple threads, and put your ball joint fork under the rubber grease boot and tap it easy as to not rupture the boot. It should pop out for you, and the nut will stop it from falling.
* The lower ball joint will be done the same way. Loosen the nut to the last few threads, and stick your fork between the grease boot and spindle ear. You can hit it on in there since your replacing it, and it should pop free. Once free, if you use your hand you can push down on the upper control arm to remove the nut from the upper ball joint, and pick up on the spindle to remove the nut from the lower. Now you can maneuver the spindle til you get it free from both ball joints and the axle. I just picked up on the upper and pulled the spindle out, and wiggled it off the bottom one.
* Time to break out the Ball joint removal tool. Follow the instructions and place the correct sleeves where they need to be on the top and bottom of the lower ball joint. Once ready to tighten the tool, if you don't have an air gun, I turned the tool til it rested on the lower control arm for stability, and cranked down on it with my breaker bar and the piece of pipe. Took some serious muscle, but it broke free of the control arm.
* You will need to use the tool to press the new ball joint in as well. Just take your time and use good judgment with the pieces you are using. There is a small indention on the control arm where you will have access to the grease fitting once the new ball joint is installed. Take note of that, and remember to not install the grease fitting till you have the ball joint in and set in the correct place. If the tool slips or you do use the wrong sleeve or cap you will damage that fitting and risk breaking it off in the ball joint and it will just fail from no lubrication. Once installed, you can install your grease fitting, but DO NOT grease it before re-assembly of everything.
* Re-assembling everything is pretty much reversing the removal. My upper ball joint was lubed pretty well which causes the shaft on it to spin when tightening the nut, so I used the ball joint tool to push the spindle up on it a bit so it would I could tighten it good. Also, just in case, wipe the sensor off before reinstalling to remove any dirt that may be stuck to it.
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