Did a front brake job on a Kia Sorento that shouldn't even be on the road.

Thing had a wheel bearing that was so bad that we could move the tire at least and inch. Both sides. This caused the caliper brackets to eat into the rotors which I had just turned. I really didn't wanna let her leave with a car in that condition.

At work today I had to change a flywheel on a 98 K2500 with the 350. Not a bad job but it was a rusty stinky old farm truck. Man I must say I love working on the 2000+ trucks a lot better than these old body styles! Cursed GM for poor designs I don't know how many times. Bolt on transfer case instead of having studs, makes for a bit of a pain to line up the gasket and bolts etc. The old half metric half standard, one of my biggest pet peeves for some reason. So much garbage attached to the bell housing bolts it wasn't funny. Oh well still made 2.5hrs on the job so I'm not complaining.

im surprised you did, because technically thats considered an unsafe car and it can come back and bite you in the ass if that bearing fails and she crashes. my brother couldnt let my truck leave the shop when my trucks bearing was that bad because of liability reasons. same thing with my buicks gas leak issue they wouldnt let me leave without dishing out more money to fix it.

drove my buick today, i get out there and open the door and hear a crunching sound look see nothing then as soon as i sit down bees come flying out of the door.. i flew out of that car pretty quick.. came back and covered the car in bee killer and found 5 nests throughout the side of the car.. im not happy. but i got the car out for some exercise and i didnt get stung.

GA doesn't have those laws, since we don't have vehicle safety inspections. Only thing we could do is annotate on the ticket that the bearings were bad and that the customer was notified, but denied us fixing them.

It's pretty similiar here in NY too. If you decline to have a safety related item fixed, its annotated on the paperwork to cover the shops butt.

In other news, I finished up the S-10 yesterday by replacing the sun shell in the transmission. I fixed the trans, but broke the rear brake line and 2 exhaust manifold down pipe bolts. And someone said something about the sunshell being easier to replace than it is to drop the trans. Well, he was right.

Remove front driveshaft
Remove rear driveshaft
Disconnect exhaust front to rear
Put jack under end of transfer case and raise it up to clear the crossmember.
Remove crossmember.
Remove transfercase
Remove starter
Remove flywheel bolts
Disconnect everything
Remove transmission
Run to parts store for T50 star socket. $4.20.
Strip brand new T50
Grab 8 mm allen socket and use cut off wheel to make new T50Plus. Why do they feel they need to use star bolts on the bell housing?

Well today at work I started off with a 4 wheel brake job on a 2011 Impala, just rotors and service calipers as the pads were like new. Oil change was on it too. Got the brakes done and drained the oil, noticed a leak coming down from the top of the engine down to the oil pan, went to fill it up and checked, sure enough, back head gasket was leaking on the drivers side of the engine. Powertrain warranty, cha-ching! GM pays 6.8hrs, customer pay would have been around 10 hours, oh well, I can rattle those out like no tomorrow since I've done so many 3.1/3.4/3.5/3.9 head gaskets in the past 7 years. 4 hours later the customer was down the road.:D

Glad you got it fixed up bud! Yeah they're a pain eh!? And they're a Torx+ not a Torx, the new 4L70's are a MoreTorx which is like a 4 sided torx. Why not just make them a 15mm? Gotta wonder sometimes.:confused:

Yea, what the heck over!? I researched online and found it was the T50 PLUS. So, I goto the AcDelco parts store and ask for a T50 Plus. He hands me a T50. I said thats not a T50 Plus, he said he has never heard of one.:rolleyes:

But yea, why not 15mm's instead? Or is it an issue with clearance between the torque converter and bolt heads?:mad:

Yeah it's a T50+ but a regular T50 will work but you have to be REALLY straight and careful, be sure your extension is longer than the bell housing in case it slips so you don't slice your hand open. Don't think it's a clearance issue, there should be lots of room for shallow headed 15mm bolts. I know that's the way the Allison's are. But yeah, I curse GM all the time for having unnecessary bull crap like that on things! Then they change that to a Moretorx for the 4L70s. WHY?!?!?!sb2

I was actually thinking of taking one of those bolts to the hardware store and find standard replacement for them. But, eh, this new sun shell should be good for another 100,000 miles.

And why can't GM install a hanger (just like the spare tire cable hoists) above the transmission and transfer case? Just winch it down and your all set.

Jeep came in today with a hard to start problem.

If the engine was "cold" (not ran in 5-10 minutes) it would crank but not start right away. Basically it would crank and crank until you let off the key. Then, when you turned the key again, it would fire right up.

Checked the spark plugs, fouled out, so my manger told me to change them. I did, problem remained.

Found out the number 4 injector connector was broke. Ordered new connector with pigtail and spliced it in. Problem remained.

I kept suggesting either a fuel pressure test during hard cranking/firing, or hooking up the scan-tool to watch the data from the Cam/Crank sensors. My manager didn't wanna hear me on either of those suggestions.

When 4pm came around, I was scheduled to be off. So, I told my manage that I was clocking out and heading home. He then said, "So you're just walking away from that huh?" as if he was pissed off that I wasn't staying to fix it. Screw you buddy, if you're not gonna listen to my suggestions when the vehicle OBVIOUSLY isn't getting fuel until you crank it a second time (or if you shut it off and re-fire right after), I'm not gonna hang around and beat my brain in. Especially when I've hung over a hot engine bay for 4 straight hours changing this, and cleaning that.