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Old 03-06-2008, 02:09 PM   #11
Darrel
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yeah, but the red neck way worked for me to prove that what i did here works, i can redo it if i want or when it goes out and i'll do the rest the "proper" way now.

gotta justify buying specialty tools ya know
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Old 03-06-2008, 02:11 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Darrel
yeah, but the red neck way worked for me to prove that what i did here works, i can redo it if i want or when it goes out and i'll do the rest the "proper" way now.

gotta justify buying specialty tools ya know
I hear ya, I've used my little pocket screwdriver in a pinch
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Old 03-06-2008, 03:19 PM   #13
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It doesn't look bad, like was said earlier make sure your cut ends are facing out and trimmed right at the outside edge of the terminal, and you should try to maintain the twist all the way up to the terminals. Most TIA specs call for no more than half an inch of untwist in the wire. A proper impact tool with a blade will cut off the wire bits at the end as you punch. Also usually on a keystone jack like this there is a cover that goes over the terminals to keep out moisture and dust and all that. The untwist length is especially important if you're wanting to do gigabit ethernet over Cat5e cabling, not quite as important if you're doing 10/100 megabit.

The orange pair / green pair flopping is for crossovers, if you need to connect two similar devices (i.e., a computer to a computer or a hub to a hub) that doesn't support auto-MDIX, you would wire one end as A and the other end as B. To connect a hub to a PC, you would do a straight-through connection, basically both ends either A or B.

I usually follow the "B" standard, which calls for the orange pair to land on pins 1 and 2 and the greens on 3 and 6. But "A" is fine too, as long as both ends are wired the same for a straight-through connection.
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Old 03-06-2008, 06:24 PM   #14
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you may have gotten away with it without the crimper, but you best not pull on it, it'll probably pull out, heck, it does it to me even when i do crimp it if i yank it by mistake

so what category of wire did you use? looks like 5e. and was it stranded or solid?

not sure why i really wanna know, but i'm curious.
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Old 03-06-2008, 09:33 PM   #15
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Cat5e from Lowes (solid)

also, i went out and bought the Punch Down tool and WOW, it is SO much easier (and cleaner) with it. i redid that connection (and made 4 new ones) and it now looks like a pro did it .
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Old 03-06-2008, 09:40 PM   #16
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actually, the direction isn't as much of an issue as the twist.

you have the correct color code, but you have degraded the speed by untwisting that far. you MUST maintain the factory twists on termination. and they should be right on the end.

edit, i dont think i explained that last part very well. i mean the part where you cut, and stripped the jacket, should be right up on the label that tells you the color code.
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Old 03-06-2008, 10:22 PM   #17
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like this
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and yeah, ive done this a few times this is only one of close to 40 cabinets in this particular data center
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Old 03-06-2008, 10:22 PM   #18
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so basicly, strip as little of the jacket off as possible and don't untwist the "twisted pair" any more then necessary. gotcha. thats what i figgured, but that pic was of the first one i did and i used pliers to push the wire down... they look MUCH better now.
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Old 03-06-2008, 10:25 PM   #19
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Yikes, just saw those pics...

what i've done now matches what you show, but insted of 40 MILLION lines i'm working on about 10...
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Old 03-06-2008, 10:26 PM   #20
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you can strip off a few inches or more, cuz they will be cut anyway. whatever length is easier for YOU, to work with. some guys like to strip almost a foot, I cant work with that much, i just use about 4 inches.
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