I own an '88 Chevy G30 w/5.7L. The AC comp went out years ago and I'm leery of it'* clutch bearing seizing up. The idler pulley sets between the comp and AIR pump on a bracket that can flipped up to hold the pulley higher. I assume one does that with a grooved pulley when using a w/o AC serpentine belt?

No, there are A/C delete pulley available just about everywhere. Just bolt it on and go. It allows you to still use your original belt.

Thanks. I did see those for other years and models but none for mine so figured the bracket was repositioned when eliminating the AC comp. I'll look up the length of the belt and run some string around the pulleys to see if my hunch is correct. If so, then I'll reinforce the bracket on the back with angle iron that'll rest against the AC mount so it won't twist.

Wait, you have regular V-belts?

Just one serpentine belt that currently spins the alt., PS-water-AIR pumps and the AC comp. Nobody makes an AC bypass bracket for the '88 G30 5.7L, probably because the existing bracket can be flipped up to hold a ribbed idler pulley. I think the current belt can be used after doing that. I measured 12" from the top of the ac clutch pulley down around the idler to the outer edge of the AIR pulley. Then I went from there in a straight line to where I figure the new pulley top would be a got 10". I believe the tensioner will drop low enough to take up the extra 2".
The idler bracket is 1/4" steel so should be strong enough for that application. I'll reinforce it anyways to be on the safe side.

Weird but I have to agree I couldn't find a compressor-delete pulley at Napa and Autozone for this vehicle. Dirtywork, would you mind adding before and after photos to this thread when you finish?

Sure, I can do that but may also include a pic or two using the shorter 94" serpentine belt that'* for that yr/model/motor w/o AC. Figured I better get (order) one just in case reusing the existing 101" belt doesn't pan out. I also need to get 2 belt pulley bushings since the replacements' bearings are wider, leaving 4mm unsupported. Our region'* FLAPS never heard of those (even though they stock Dorman products) so will check with the Chevy house in Longview for those and the proper engine temperature sender for my van. Bought one at a regional FLAP (SMP TS76T) that turns out to be a cooling fan switch that makes my temp idiot light glow when the coolant heats up then gradually dims as I motor down the highway. I checked several on-line part sellers and they also list the TS76T as a temp sending unit without mentioning it'* a cooling fan switch. The original sender became weak from age and made the light glow when it reached the normal operating temperatures. Now it does the opposite!

Bill
1988 Chevy G30 service van 5/7L w/TH400 (unknown miles: OD went out at 93K in '95. Think it has 250K)
1973 BMW R75/5 (745cc motorcycle) original owner

Cool, thanks!