GMC 2009 2500HD. Starts and runs fine when cold. Then shuts off and won’t restart. Cranks though. Replaced PCM, timing chain and vvt sprocket and cam bolt. Tensioner and oil pump with HV melling. New cam and crank sensor ac Delco. New vvt solenoid and vvt harness on front cover. Has spark and fuel pressure of about 45 psi and 55 when it runs. It will run until it gets hot and shuts off and throws P0016 cam/crank correlation code. It commands a zero but while cranking, it shows 19 as the variance. It has spark but won’t fire even with starting fluid. I am completely stumped and have no idea where to turn to next. Oil pressure cold is 60psi at idle then falls to 22. It also reads 22 while cranking. Does anyone know if low oil pressure can throw the cam out of phase causing a no start condition?

Silverado 2500 or express 2500?

What engine and transmission?

How many miles on it?

How many miles have you owned it?

Did you replace all of that stuff before/after/etc. this issue?

217,000 miles. 2009 Sierra 2500HD LY6 gas 6.0. Had the truck since new. Problem started before any parts were changed. Nothing I did fixed it. When it runs after a cold start, the only issue is the blinking and chiming traction control light when giving it big revs while parked. It sometimes will cut the throttle too. That usually clears up after a couple minutes until it dies and won’t fire again until it’* cold. TPS sensor is also new. Might swap it out for another new one and change the plugs even though I have no misfires.

after it dies, it cranks but won’t start even with starting fluid. Sometimes it will sputter a few seconds and then dies. PCM was also replaced and programmed to vin. Did the key relearn and no theft deterrent errors.

if it has fuel pressure and the injectors are firing and it has verified spark when I pull a plug and ground it, to me it should fire unless for some reason the cam is intermittently out of phase causing it to stall and not start. When it cools off, the oil is thicker and maybe brings it back into phase? I would think that with no oil pressure it would default to the neutral position unless it returns to full advance or full retard with low oil pressure. However when hot, my oil pressure is 22 psi at idle. It only has stalled after idling and not during periods when I’m holding the rpm higher. Oil pressure is higher at that point as well. I might run like straight 30wt in it to see if it runs longer. Right now it has fresh 5w-30 Mobil1

Also should note that it doesn’t have this code when running well. It will set after it stalls but not 100% of the time.

Also it’* a Sierra 2500HD

So this AM when it was cold, it fired up but sputtered a bit then ran great. I helps the RPM after getting a little heat in it and watched the cam variance, oil pressure and oil temp. When the oil got to 185 degrees, i slowly let off the throttle down to idle and the oil pressure dropped to 20 psi and I watched the variance jump up to 19.3 degrees and the engine immediately died and would not restart.

I'm thinking the cam phaser needs a certain amount of oil pressure to return to the neutral position and there is not enough to move it. So its probably fully retarded or advanced where there is not enough pressure to overcome the spring inside. That'* why it doesn't fire and shows a variance of 19.3 degrees while cranking. At idle, the cam is commanding .5 degrees and that is what it is when idling with cold oil. With hot oil, there is not enough pressure while idling or cranking to move the cam where it needs to be.

What I don't know is if I can put on a non VVT cam sprocket utilizing the single bolt design to keep the cam in time and program out the VVT in the PCM to try and stretch some more life out of the engine. It'* just a yard truck.

Thoughts? Am I on the right track?

I'm curious about commanded cam advance versus actual cam advance.

What is the fuel pressure when this happens?

How many miles on the current spark plugs?

commanded position is 0. I can test the phaser with my scanner and it passes the test. Fuel pressure is 35 psi and plugs are of unknown mileage but I have no misfires. Yesterday it ran an hour without issues and then would not restart after a 5 minute shut down. The fuel pressure is on the low side but I would think it would still fire. I’m ready to try to replace the fuel pump just to see what happens

Yeah, that fuel pressure is really low.

replaced the fuel pump and it still reads 35 psi. Gauge is new but I’m second guessing it now. If I move the hose, the pressure moves from 35 to 60 even with the engine off.