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Old 01-30-2013, 10:22 AM   #11
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the fuel pressure may be the regulator, check the reg for fuel smell. i would get a tester, see what the pressure is i think 58ish on the 2000+ vortecs. if it goes up with the key on engine off then goes back down it could be the reg. try capping the return somewhere and that will tell you the pressure that the pump is capable of putting out.

the 446 is a electric circuit code for the vent valve, test the plug one should have 12ish V(i think it was the orange) the valve should have continuity.the other wire goes to the pcm and it senses for the 12v through the valve when its plugged in. try the valve with a battery if it doesnt work or is sticky it may need replaced or squirt some wd in it at actuate it a few times, all the trucks have issues with it getting crap in them and there is a relocation kit.
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Old 01-31-2013, 11:42 AM   #12
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Thanks for your responses!
I have drained the tank, and I have the new pump.
I will watch out for the evap hose.

I replaced the vent valve a couple months ago.
I will check it to see if it is got power, etc.
I do live on a gravel logging road, and the old one was full of mud.
I will check the new one again too.
Maybe I need to find out more about the relocation kit.
Hopefully dropping the tank this morning if the rain lets up a little
Thanks again,
Les
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Old 01-31-2013, 11:45 AM   #13
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One more thing that is related to the evap.
It is slow as molasses to fill her up.
I checked the fill tube, and pushed the anti-siphon valve into the tank, and replaced the vent valve.
It does fill a little better but is still slowwwwwwwww.
Any suggestions.
Thanks
Les
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Old 01-31-2013, 12:47 PM   #14
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if you live on a logging road you really need the kit, my old mans was full of junk and he doesnt drive on any dirt roads. sometimes the connector gets full of mud and junk and causes circuit fault codes, not filling fast has to do with the evap sometimes
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Old 01-31-2013, 03:14 PM   #15
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The body nut for the rear tank strap broke free, now the bolt just spins.
I will have to cut the bolt, and come up with a plan.
Fun.
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Old 01-31-2013, 03:18 PM   #16
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Cut the bolt head off with a cutoff tool if you have one. Or, just cut the tank straps if they are severely corroded. It makes it much easier. And yes, I know you will end up having to buy new straps. Been there, done that.
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Old 01-31-2013, 03:24 PM   #17
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The straps are fine. The nut is screwed. It is in a boxed in frame. Might have to drill through the other side and put a bolt all the way through.
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Old 01-31-2013, 03:28 PM   #18
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Oh, for some reason I thought we were talking about a Bonneville? This is why we ask people to put the vehicle information in their signature.
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Old 01-31-2013, 03:32 PM   #19
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I have added my vehicle to my signature.
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Old 01-31-2013, 10:01 PM   #20
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So I cut the bolt off, and luckily there is a pocket of space above, and I was able to slip a nut in there, and zap a new bolt in.
It went really well, and I removed the rest of the fuel once I got the tank down, to make it easier to lift back in.
I took the charcoal canister down and blew it out. I believe it was plugged, and hope that solves the slow filling problem.
The only thing that went wrong was that as I was cleaning up after finishing the job, I found a huge O ring in the packaging. So I dropped the tank again, ( luckily I did not put any fuel in it yet ) put the o ring in and put the tank back in again.
I ran out of time, but it is very close, and I don't think I will have any more problems.
In the morning I will make the final connections, put some fuel in, and let her rip.
Will keep you posted on the evap problem.

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