Verifying: Clear water, and "like a garden hose" on low, right?

YES, It has always been like that only when it is cooling. When the warm air starts it drips very little.

This is normal in high humidity conditions if you are using 'fresh air' intake mode. If its set to RECIRCULATE, it may drip for a little bit, then it will stop.

Okay so we got this one answered. Still at this point it could be that the compressor stops, a control issue, or the evaporator freezing up. So:

. . . ?

. . . ?

. . . ? One should be cold and one should be warm.

Started blowing warm air after it stopped cooling. I felt the lines under the hood coming from the compressor and them are warm. It seems like something turned off the compressor. let the truck sit for a few hours and it will start cooling. the line coming from the compressor are real cold. I just want to know what the real problem before I start to spend a lot of money and find out it still needs another part.

Thanks for the help

The real problem can only be diagnosed with proper equipment. Speculating can be done all day long with no answers give because the proper tools are not being used.

If the system works for a short time, you need to find out if a safety device is TURNING it off, or if something is FAILING which will turn it off. This is where pressure gauges, a DVOM come in handy. If pressure gauges are showing normal pressures, and the system stops, then either a pressure switch is failing and you can monitor this with the DVOM, or the HVAC head is turning it off.

It'* time to stop speculating, and get some real tools attached to this vehicle. Or, take it to a qualified repair facility.

How about the lines going to and from the evaporator?

The way this is worded tells me [the lines are warm as if something turned off the compressor] but doesn't actually indicate whether the clutch plate on the compressor is spinning during this event or not spinning during this event. Was the compressor running or not?

This tells me that the compressor is running when it is cooling. That'* an assumption that must be true. What I still don't get is the condition of the compressor when it stops cooling. There could be other issues that cause a lack of flow or etc. that would have the compressor running and lines warm. I can't tell without getting answers to the questions that have been pending for 18 days so far:

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I understand this. That'* a big part of why I have learned my way into air conditioning. For me it started when my air conditioning went out on my mid-80'* LeSabre when I lived in a hot area. At nearly the same time, my parents' early-80'* B-body'* air conditioning started to not work as well as it used to. I saw them put over a thousand dollars (in 1998 ) into it because it had a tiny leak somewhere. A few days later I had a trip to Utah in August I was about to go on and decided no way putting $1,000.00 into it and bought the $40.00 kit to convert mine from R-12 to R-134 and had it working a couple of hours later.

Here'* what I can tell you about your air conditioning system with some confidence:

- It'* probably not the compressor that is the problem. There is some chance the compressor could be getting damaged by the problem and/or by the ongoing testing. The period of time where the low-pressure switch was bypassed is one example that comes to mind. $200.00-$500.00 plus several hours labor because of where they bury it.

- It'* likely not the evaporator that is the problem. If it was you'd never get cool air. Unless it is physically damaged somehow. You haven't mentioned major damage to the vehicle so I assume it is not physically damaged. $100.00-$150.00 plus probably five hours of labor

- It'* probably not the condenser that is the problem. There is a chance that it is plugged with particles of disintegrating compressor. If this were the case, I'd suspect cooling wouldn't work very well when it does actually work. $100.00-$150.00 plus a couple of hours of labor

- It'* likely not any of the lines between A/C parts that are the problem.

- I don't think it'* a control issue. Control issues usually either work or not, but consistently work for a while then stop repeatedly is unlikely in my opinion.

- I don't think it is an issue with a relay. Usually relays either work or not, but consistently work for a while then stop repeatedly is unlikely in my opinion.

- Maybe it'* the low-pressure switch? Perhaps it is stuck on and causing other issues downstream . . . including a safety cut out like Mike mentioned . . . ?

I agree entirely. We've cleared much of the system for which parts work or not etc. based on Q&A where we can get answers, but we're diagnosing remotely with several fundamental questions remaining unanswered. Lacking these answers the next step to resolve would be to take it to a qualified repair facility. I can say with some confidence that if they tell you it needs a complete overhaul and everything replaced yada yada I'd suggest you take it to another qualified repair facility as most of the major parts appear to be working. If they tell you stuff that you have questions about, feel free to bring your questions (with details) here and we'll do our best to answer.

After learning that your mechanic bypassed the low-pressure switch I have to say I have concerns that he/she is not the qualified repair facility you should take it to. Perhaps he/she has a recommendation for one though . . . ?

Either way, we'd love to hear how it turns out.

I doubt he'* coming back.

Never mind. Wrong thread. Lmao