Cool, that will make it easier anyways.

Some good reviews too, but yeah several noting [rough mating surface] are concerning. I didn't read the reviews in depth yesterday. The one where all of the ears broke off is hard for me to believe though.

I've tossed back and forth whether to rebuild the engine or install a used engine. A couple of deals fell through on buying a complete Trail Blazer; one with a rebuilt engine. I have a line on a couple more complete Trail Blazers through a friend of a friend. My friend doesn't know what model year they are. We're going to go look at them soon, but I'm not sure what years would be best with my 2002 LTZ, that allowed the most interchangeability of the MOST parts possible - chiefly the engine, but body parts would be nice too. I wouldn't mind having some extra stuff if needed since this vehicle is getting long in the tooth!... does anybody know what range of years are the most compatible with each other? For some reason, I have the years 2002 to 2006 in my mind. I don't remember where I heard that though.

Welp, I finally found a used engine - on eBay. 127,000 miles from a wreck. It seems there was some damage done to it after I bought it. Thinking back to a conversation with the guy after it shipped, he mentioned he had to remake the shipping crate after a delay in shipping it out. It seems 2 + 2 = 4 after I checked it out. I'm thinking the first wood contraption he built collapsed.
1. The water outlet on the R. front of the head was broke off... R. side of the engine
2. The water pipe from the Block on the R. Rear was bent upward.. R. side of the engine
3. The Cam Phaser/VVT Sensor was broke at the Plastic connector.. R. side of the engine
4. A Bell housing mounting tab was broke off of the oil pan.. R. side lower bolt hole
5. The Engine was resting on the Crank Balancer for shipping
6. The Intake Manifold cover was cracked on the left rear
7. Whoever used a cutting torch to take it out of the vehicle messed up the left motor mount stud hole - they also left slag on the flywheel when they cut the torque converter off of the Flex Plate. The slag extends to the inside of ring gear where it'* pressed on

I pulled the spark plugs, and they all looked nice - dry and tan
Only one Ignition Coil had been replaced.. an aftermarket Coil
All original Spark Plugs

My main concern is the R. lower bolt hole tab broke off of the oil pan... Any thoughts on going ahead and installing the engine as is?.. using 9 out of 10 Bell housing bolts.

Shipped on the crank pulley, a bunch of broken and bent stuff, and the seller torched the torque converter off? I'd run from that engine. It might be this damaged because it was in a wreck, then got shipped to several folks who refused it. If the rocket-surgeon that torched it out of the car and packed it had anything to do with assessing its condition then all the more reason to run.

Was it a front end collision?

Was it upside down in the wreck? If so then how long did it run that way?

To answer your main concern: Anything broken off of a structural oil pan means major damage and likelihood of cracks forming near the break. Will it hold together with 10% of the transbolts missing? Probably. Will it hold oil for long. I won't say "probably".

Combined with the other issues I'd estimate going through the original engine will be better (and easier) than rehabbing this one.

Yeah, much less than optimal conditions. Totally changes my perspective on the project; including cost. The pics on eBay showed the water outlet on the R. Front intact, so not damaged in the wreck. The plastic shipping wrap around the engine showed no damage to indicate damage during shipping. I'll have to mull over what to do at this point. Whether to switch the oil for the old one, build a run stand and fire the replacement engine up, install it anyway and leave the front diff and shafts off to run it for a few miles (dummy shaft route). Whatever I choose, it'll be a big delay and less than peachy feeling about the whole project.

Another thought I forgot to mention.. What are you guys doing to pre-lube engines? On the 4.2 L, there'* a plug in the oil filter housing. Anybody ever used that to connect a drill powered pump to feed some of the oil pump/lower components with oil. Not sure how to prime the top side. I checked prices on the regular filter housing attachment... that price is out of the question

Can you return it?

Disconnect the fuel pump then turn it over a bunch until it shows oil pressure for a few seconds. Wait a few minutes for the starter to cool. Repeat a couple of times.

@CathedralCub, it'* too late to return the engine. I got my money'* worth in parts anyway, but I think it'* a good engine.. aside from monkeys fondling it First & last eBay engine though.

Cool on the oil prime technique.. I'll give it a go.

Anybody ever installed a straight front axle/diff from a truck under these TrailBlazers? I've got a spare F-250 4x4 for parts. Been mulling over doing some kind of transplant.

haha, scratch that idea.. it'd be easier to mount the TB body to a truck frame.