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Old 03-27-2004, 09:25 PM   #11
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Seems like to much of the little things is wrong with it, you can make it though the summer as is, but when winter hits you'll be taking the bus. Sell it now get 3k for it, and cut your losses. Or put a few hundred into essentials...

THE FOLLOWING ARE REDNECK FIXES..

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It always says low coolant now, even though its full, so in other words the sensor is gone
-sensors arnt to expensive, unplug it if you have to.

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My power steering pump inlet line is beginning to leak
pick one.
A)buy a bottle of fluid for it..
B)tighten the line/clamp
C)duct tape

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My power seat controls seem to be not doing there job, the passenger seat moves at a slow crawl most of the time, and mine usually doesnt go anywere
Put it in a nice position, and disconnect the lines

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I no longer have a heater motor, it just makes this wretched griding noise when it turn it on at any pace.
Run to a junker, and get one or not... springs almost here... (stop driving around with your windows open, and the heat cranked)

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That griding noise under the hood is still there, god knows what that is, almost makes me think the */C coupler is going as it registers boost in drive stopped, the needle sits one notch above -10 and goes up and down a bit.
Dont really know... duct tape?

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The rear ball joints need replacing and it looks like the front ones need replacing to.
I wouldnt sweat it... so your car squeeks... woo...

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Front inner and outter Tie Rod ends (65.50 a piece) and it does need Two new rear Tie rods, oddly enough 65.50 a piece
criticle? yes? no?
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Old 03-27-2004, 10:14 PM   #12
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Boost moving around at idle is normal. And couplers don't grind. They rattle. There'* a very obvious difference.
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Old 03-28-2004, 02:40 AM   #13
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Tie rods and ball joints are critical, my teacher said they must of been shot when i bought the car. My mom opted to pay for the tie rod ends when i told her and explained to her what exactly they do, and what happens when one breaks, it always works that way!
Im wondering if a Heater blower motor from a 86 Park Ave fits in mine, i think there is one in the shed that i removed a long time ago from my park ave cos i got gave a new one. ...
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Old 03-28-2004, 02:46 AM   #14
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People are gonna hate this, but something like a blower motor falls under the category of "How hard do you wanna make it fit?" As it'* not a part of the car that'* gonna get you killed if you "Redneck it" like Trofeo said, you can make the dang thing fit with enough creativity. Just try to be creative to the blower motor, and not the car.
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Old 03-30-2004, 02:15 AM   #15
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me and my teacher spent 30 mins today going over my car. He really tested the front end, used channel locks on the front tie rods to check for play, turns out there fine, the front ball joints are also fine, he used a few other methods to test them. The reason he thought the tie rods and front ball joints were bad was because he could move the front wheels around by pushing back and fourth on them, turns out its just the locking steering gear moving around, compleatly normal funtion.
Whats wrong with it is:
The alignment is horrible.
Both rear tie rod ends need replacment and both rear ball joints need replacment

I bought the ball joints today for 86 a piece, made by Spicer (Dana)
The tie rod ends are in Wednesday and are made by MOOG. $55 a piece.
So im much happier about this Versus 700 dollars in parts and hours and hours of my labour lol.
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