$2000 for a rebuild and $2000 in performance parts.

2000 for a rebuild
Performance parts all included
INCLUDING
New Tourque Converter
Thicker clutch pacs
Aftermarket 4th input shaft
Modified shift plate
Modified Valve body
Trans Go Shift kit
Aftermarket hardend Reverse Reactor shell
Free modification of stock PCM line pressure settings
Not to bad IMO

no.


I'd put a max of 1500 into performance stuff. High 14s or Low 13s is all I'm going for. Its going to be stock until winter is over, I prefer the keep the 93 and take it easy on the 2000.

Its a nice car and the trans works perfectly right now so I'm just having second thoughts until I have the money to put into the trans. Basically I'm trying to find documented cases of transmissions failing shortly after a flush, specifically the 4t65s, Not many of them have the miles I have on my fluid so its a bit tough to get good information.

I just change transmissions

Seriously though, over time, mileage and hard (read hot) running, clutch material will begin to infiltrate the transaxle and the fluid loses its detergent and cleaning power. The fluid will also become thicker to an extent as particulate matter becomes absorbed into it.

When done on a regular interval flushing or even pan drop changes with new fluid will help keep the detergent and cleaning abilities up as well as the ability to hold particulate matter (much like engine oil) embedded in it.

The problem comes when high mileage transmissions that have never had a fluid change and have worn clutches or levels of clutch material beyond what the fluid can hold floating around in the transaxle get a blast of fresh fluid and detergent cleaning power. Sludging or clutch material unable to be suspended in the trans fluid because of saturation can sometimes mask gasket leaks or weak/worn clutches because they can physically keep fluid from leaking through the holes in gaskets or because the fluid is thicker and heaver can help clutch packs grip. When new thinner fluid is added it can pick up all that extra particulate matter and clean better (new detergents) which can reveal the gasket leaks or since the fluid is thinner can show old/worn clutches by allowing them to now slip.

My advice, if the trans has high miles but is functioning properly and you have never changed your fluid, leave it be until it goes. If you change your fluid at periodic intervels then you know what your fluid is like and how much material is in your pan eveyrtime you do it so it gives you an idea on how the trans is holding up.

Heres a quote from Trannyman95 (a very reputable 4t65e tranny builder on ClubGP.com).

"You heard wrong then, and fortunately this is what most people think. A flush does NOT use high pressure or flush anything. It hooks in line with a trans cooler line between the transmission and radiator and there is a bladder in the flush machine that will collect old fluid and replace with new fluid. It works off of the pressure within the cooler lines itself, which is roughly 10-40 psi, there is NO additional pressure, it does NOT flush anything inside the trans, all it does is accumulate old fluid and replace with new. With that said and hopefully a better understanding here is why problems can arise from this.... A lot of shops never check trans fluid levels before or after the flush, if it came in low it goes out low, or lower which obviously will cause damage. I have witnessed this numorous times and had to rebuild transmissions because someone went to a shop that didnt check and ended up going to court over it. Another problem is that a trans with very high mileage and burnt fluid that goes in for a flush has chemically changed inside and new fluid has strong detergents that attack things and the clutch linings can literally fall off of the clutch plates and end up in pieces laying in the pan or filter. I have nothing against flush machines BUT I always would drop the pan and change the filter after a flush, or honestly prefer not using a flush machine and just drop the pan and change the filter and fluid. I feel this a better option for two reasons, One you are replacing the filter that needs changed anyways and Two you arent replacing all of the fluid and give new fluid and old fluid a chance to combine which is easier on clutch materials. "

You decide.

I take it, if the 4th gear is gone, a trans fluid flush would not help that whatsoever. If I remember seeing pictures of that 4th gear hub or whatever it is and seeing how it wears out, I dont see how a trans flush would bring it back, As far as shifts and everything else, they are still perfect up to highway speeds when it refuses to drop into OD. There is no slipping as far as gear to gear either so It'd be nice to leave it that way for as long as possible.

The very best thing you can do is first flush the trans, then change the filter.

Thats how I take it as well. I actually lost 3rd gear on my OEM tranny, and I drove the car around like that for 200 miles, and I could have went longer I'm sure, but the aftermarket warranty picked up the tab with a 2200 GM remanned tranny, so we had it done when it was convenient for us. I had zero problems other then crappy highway gas mileage. I believe AnnilihatorGTP (sp) had lost 4th gear, and had been driving it like that for several thousand miles, he actually didnt know he lost 4th until he posted up about his crummy highway gas mileage.

Just some food for thought, one of my friends drives a Jeep Grand Cherokee, and his tranny took a dump on him, leaving him stranded (tranny would slip so bad, the car wouldn't move). I went to the restaurant parking lot it was sitting in the middle of, dropped the pan, replaced the filter, filled with fluid, and some Lucas. Car drove right home, which was the goal, but the lazy bastard drove it for like a month. Granted it was still slipping, but drivable.

Then it happened again, I did the same thing, it drove to my house and got a junkyard tranny. Good as new............... Then he flipped it two weeks later and got a new Jeep.