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Old 10-12-2005, 09:50 AM   #1
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Default tinting with glass removed

In the middle of my resto, I have the rear glass out of the car. Any thoughts on tinting before reinstalling? Seems to me it would be much easier.....
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Old 10-12-2005, 11:12 AM   #2
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Default Re: tinting with glass removed

Quote:
Originally Posted by TROYPORT
In the middle of my resto, I have the rear glass out of the car. Any thoughts on tinting before reinstalling? Seems to me it would be much easier.....
yes, im sure it would be MUCH easier
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Old 10-12-2005, 11:19 AM   #3
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go for it! would be SOO much easier than in the car. Working above a piece is always easier than wedging your arms above the rear deck .
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Old 10-12-2005, 11:47 AM   #4
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Seems pretty logical to me.
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Old 10-12-2005, 11:47 AM   #5
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Shape the tint with a geat gun to the outside of the glass first. Then peel it and move it to the inside. It'll make it alot easier to deal with wrinkles or bubbles, and can be done in one piece that way.

Definitely do it out of the car if possible.
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Old 10-12-2005, 01:28 PM   #6
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If your car is an 00+, def do it outside the car. those are stupid a$$ windows to do. Either way, be sure to clean the window, since its the rear you cant clean it with a stainless steel razorblade like you would the rest. Make up a bottle of solution made up or about a half a cup of baby shampoo and water. Spray the inside of window heavily so you can slide the tint. Be sure to spray the tint as you pull off the backing to the adhesive side so it wont set up on you right away. Something that would make it easier to squeege the water out would be one of those el-cheapo tint kits from a store that sells that cheap tint. It comes with two rubber pieces that look like rubber spatulas. Again, spray the tint after its on the window, the backside mind you[side facing in the car] so you can slide the rubber along it without tearing the tint or creasing it. That will squeege out the water. If you get fingers, try to get them out but pushing them down with a ID or the rubber piece. IF the fingers still come back, grab you heat gun....and I warn you, be very careful cause if too much heat is applied you will [A. dry the glue, and B. ruin all that hard work] Apply very Light heat on the finger until it ripples, then push it down and hold it to the glass, that makes the glue hold fast to the window. You should be good from there. Dont use or check your defroster for atleast 3 to 5 days if you have it hooked up yet or have it there.

If you have any questions about the write up, let me know.
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Old 10-12-2005, 01:49 PM   #7
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The 92-99 rear window is far more difficult than the 00+. There'* an odd dip in the glass down low. And don't scrape your defrost lines with a razor blade. Use a fine scotch-brite pad with your solution to clean the inside of the rear window.
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Old 10-12-2005, 01:57 PM   #8
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I dunno wren, the small dip in the back window blows on the 00+, but I have to agree the older models sucks too. Yea on the scotch brite, use the BLUE or WHITE pads only as the green is too abbrasive.
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Old 10-12-2005, 02:05 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chad Vollmer
I dunno wren, the small dip in the back window blows on the 00+, but I have to agree the older models sucks too. Yea on the scotch brite, use the BLUE or WHITE pads only as the green is too abbrasive.
Exactly. I use the white. And use a lint free cloth to remove all the gunk, or make sure it all drips down to carry away any loose debris you broke loose with the scotch brite. Even little fibers from ScotchBrite can ruin your tint job.
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Old 10-12-2005, 02:12 PM   #10
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Yea, i got two fibers from somewhere on my back window, so ive gotta steam clean the back window to get the tint off.
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