supercharger whine
im thinking you might be right 2kg4u, bc i just got a new spuercharger installed no joke, 1 week ago today, and when i gave it some gas it did the exact same thing as with the old one, so you think i sould change my plugs, wires, coils or injectors?
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I would change plugs and wires. If the problem persists, move coil packs around to see if you can find the bad one. Buy a mechanic'* stethoscope (Ebay $10) and listen to each injector. If the injector is firing, you can hear a mechanical clicking sound each time it fires. If it is not firing, the sound will be different than the other 5 injectors. If an injector is not firing, pull the electrical connection off that injector and check for voltage across the contacts of the wire going to the injector with the engine running. You should read a steady 10 to 12 volts. If you get the proper voltage, and the injector is not "clicking" you probably have a bad injector.
If the money tree is bare, change plugs and check resistance on the wires. There is a resistance factor of so many ohms per inch of wire, but I am at work and my FSM is at home, and I forget what that factor is. I can look it up tonight if one of the tech guys doesn't chime in with the number first. Examine the connectors on each end of each wire for corrosion, damage, separation, or anything else out of place. Clean the contacts on top of each coil. Remove each coil and clean the contacts on the bottom. Use your meter to check continuity on the primary and secondary circuits on each coil (top contacts, then bottom contacts) and report the results. Use dielectric grease when you put the wires and coils back on. Make sure you clearly mark which wire goes where (both at the coil packs and at each cylinder) before you pull wires.
The mechanic'* stethoscope is a very inexpensive, and very worthwhile investment. I use mine all the time.
If the money tree is bare, change plugs and check resistance on the wires. There is a resistance factor of so many ohms per inch of wire, but I am at work and my FSM is at home, and I forget what that factor is. I can look it up tonight if one of the tech guys doesn't chime in with the number first. Examine the connectors on each end of each wire for corrosion, damage, separation, or anything else out of place. Clean the contacts on top of each coil. Remove each coil and clean the contacts on the bottom. Use your meter to check continuity on the primary and secondary circuits on each coil (top contacts, then bottom contacts) and report the results. Use dielectric grease when you put the wires and coils back on. Make sure you clearly mark which wire goes where (both at the coil packs and at each cylinder) before you pull wires.
The mechanic'* stethoscope is a very inexpensive, and very worthwhile investment. I use mine all the time.
Last edited by 2kg4u; Sep 25, 2009 at 02:46 PM. Reason: fix spelling
well, yea since im in college and not rolling in money, i think im just gonna change the wires and plugs and see if that makes a change, and just incase i need to, how much do coils cost? and when you say there is a resistance of ohms per inch of wire, do you mean that if there is a shorter wire, there will be less resistance, or am i just talking like an idiot?
Last edited by ricosuave420; Sep 25, 2009 at 03:05 PM.
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$40 each and you need 3. That'* why I suggested you check resistance on the primary and secondary circuits, and clean the contacts before you spend money on coils. Also, check the other things I suggested before you spend $120 on coils, only to find out they aren't the problem.
yea and concidering im 120 miles away from my car, on the rare weekends that il be home i can be like o they arent the problem, lets return then, bc i wont have the time, and what are your suggestions for wire and plug brand names? and whats the difference between like titanium and copper plugs?
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The tech guys in this forum advocate the Autolite copper plugs. I have iridium in mine, but these guys have a lot more experience and knowledge than me (and copper are less expensive). If you do searches on this forum for plug wires, the general consensus is most wires are as good as any other. One set of good wires will not give you better performance than another. Its only when wires go bad that they come into effect. Personnally, I prefer 8 mm wires over 7 mm because I think they protect the inner core better.
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Remember, nearly everything is in the tech info area. https://www.gmforum.com/t278818/
The reason for copper plugs over platinum or iridium is because those have a much smaller terminal, and these tend to get very hot on a boosted engine. That causes preignition. Autolites cost about $2.69 a pair at Menards.
Plug wires are all about the same. Stock OEM replacements will be just fine.
The reason for copper plugs over platinum or iridium is because those have a much smaller terminal, and these tend to get very hot on a boosted engine. That causes preignition. Autolites cost about $2.69 a pair at Menards.
Plug wires are all about the same. Stock OEM replacements will be just fine.
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LOL!, unfortunately for Rico. I tied him up and threw him in the Dungeon. Most there, I allow to view but not be able to post. Rico got the IP boot. And when he came back in, I blocked his entire college. Just because I can.
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