It really depends on the condition of his endlinks. My endlinks were in good shape, and replacing them didn't make a difference i could notice.

One thing to remember is that skidpad numbers have NOTHING to do with real life driving situations. The number you need to look at to determine real-world handling is the slalom speed, and I doubt that the Bonneville could really compete there. The weight difference alone should give the GTP a major advantage.

Out on the road is another story though. I think my old 95 SSEi could have given a good accounting of itself against the GTP. For darn sure I could take it through corners hard enough to shake most "sporty" cars. The fact that the suspension is a little softer is actually an advantage on most Ohio back roads. When I hit a bump in the middle of a corner, the Bonnie would just soak it up and cruise on through the corner, where a tighter sprung, smaller car like an MR2 would hit the bump and skitter up the corner like a skateboard.

And BTW, that PA Ultra might surprise you at how well it handles...I know mine surprised me.

Ya, i've heard mixed reviews about the Ultra'* handling. Some say its soft some say it handles like its on rails. Maybe every Ultra has a different spring rate or something.

Well, I know i have a SE but it handles pretty well. A SHO was tailing me. I gained a few car length from him from going thru the twisties so I can say that my car surprised me many times.

And just to think of it, my car has bad struts and it still handles shockingly well, I can't wait for new struts. But of course, anything is better than that old boat I had before.

The GTP will 'feel' more nimble due to steering alone as it has a different ratio in the rack and a shorter wheelbase.

The Bonneville will handle well in the twisties because of the wider track (PA also). Remember that alot of this has to do with the suspension AND tires. Not just the grip, but the sidewall flex as well. You DO want some sidewall flex.

The slalom is tough on the Bonneville because of the cone spacing when compared to the wider track and body, and the longer wheelbase and length of the car. This is why the slalom numbers really aren't a true representation.

The difference from SE to SSEi will be significant. The FE2 suspension with ELC struts adds alot.

I ran just over a year ago through the mountain twisties in Southern Oregon while on the phone (handsfree) with Jim W. and Bonnie94SSE (pete). My youngest (Katie) was calling the shots as co-driver. We handed an MR2 Spyder his *** in cornering at speed and handling, and clearly (obviously) destroyed him in the straights (particularly the steep uphills).

The SSEi is a handler. No doubt.

Oh man, you're my idol. :P

But Rogue, still my number one(because of that insane burnout video) but you're the second idol.

One thing I'm curious about, when I play in the twisties (when it'* empy of course) the car seems to almost ride on its rockers and I'm left clinging to the steering wheel so I could stay in the seat, why the car leans soooo much? Should I upgrade to higher performance struts to help flatten the car out?

You need struts that respond quicker (like Monroe Sensatracs or KYB'*) AND an upgrade in springs and swaybars to get it balanced. FE2 springs and sways from an SSEi will work great.

Just remember you still don't have the FE2 steering rack at that point. The comparison between my two cars is obvious.

Even though both have FE2 suspension and sways, I have the better rack in the SSEi, but not in the SLE. Steering input is very different. I find myself 'constantly' steering in the SLE as compared to the SSEi which requires very little motion at higher (freeway) speeds. It'* also tighter, so you don't over-steer.

The rack in my SLE is the same rack as your car. I wish it was the same as my SSEi.

Keep in mind that BOTH of my cars have T2V RPO (two flow electronic TFE steering), but that'* really only increasing the power assist at slower speeds (under 20mph) and has no effect above 20mph. The SSEi rack (variable) is the key to better steering performance.

I see, if I replace my struts with Sensatrac (for example) my car would be out of "balance" because my sways and springs still can't keep the car flat and the Sensatracs would be wasted money right? Or are you saying that the Sensatracs would help significantly but with a FE2 sway and spring swap, it would give the Sensatrac full potential to work its magic?

I'm just curious because it'* time to replace my struts, they're making cracking noises (so my parents tell me because I can't hear) when I go over bumpy surfaces.

Struts won't put you out of balance. The balance comes with the springs and sways. Don't do one without the other. The struts will enable the change to reach it'* fullest potential. Do the poly swaybar endlinks at the same time. The 95 and newer links use a plastic spacer that can compress over time, and the bushings are inferior, particularly with age and wear.