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Old 07-06-2005, 11:15 AM   #11
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I remembered you used a torque wrench. That'* why I gave you the method I use. BTW, I leaned that lug/stud oiling idea from Hector a couple years ago. Works like a charm, and if you think about it, makes alot of sense. I'm so anal about my wheel torque, I carry my 'cheap' torque wrench in the trunk at all times with the right socket on it.

www.rsm-racing.com

I wouldn't suggest buying them from DP like I did.
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Old 07-06-2005, 11:48 PM   #12
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I like the wd40 trick...Putting in my little note book of tricks.
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Old 07-06-2005, 11:50 PM   #13
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i thought he said don't use wd-40.....
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Old 07-06-2005, 11:50 PM   #14
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Quote:
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i thought he said don't use wd-40.....
I'd go back and give it another read through. He said to use it.
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Old 07-06-2005, 11:53 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by willwren
... Now lightly spray a light oil (not WD-40, that ain't oil, it'* solvent) on the rustable surfaces and the lug threads.
am i missin' something?
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Old 07-06-2005, 11:59 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xX1SSEI1Xx
Quote:
Originally Posted by willwren
... Now lightly spray a light oil (not WD-40, that ain't oil, it'* solvent) on the rustable surfaces and the lug threads.
am i missin' something?
No, you aren't.
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Old 07-07-2005, 01:36 AM   #17
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Another one little tip.

While you have the calipers off, Pull out the slides, and the rubber the slides fit in. The caliper rusts or something in that hole and it tightens up when hot. Swear to god, I could put them to gether cold and have the easiest to move slides ever, Pop a wheel off hot and that caliper was stuck like glue. Lightly braking and slowly heating the calipers would let them stay in the right spot but still might lock up the slides. Wait, Your pads are still good... Well clean it anyway, It can't hurt.
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Old 07-07-2005, 05:10 AM   #18
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Just make sure everything under there is good. I run napa rotors right now, everytime the wheels are off and look cruddy i wire brush them, the calipers are all good, and the hub is cleaned.

I torque to 25, then 50 then 75, then a final turn. All are patterened in the correct way to do it.

I also make sure not to brake too hard until i've warmed them up some. This can be heard by my shitty *** napa pads, which apparantly aren't along the same qualities as the rotors. They dust a lot, but they work great.

Knowing how to use brakes to avoid warping is key too. Don't get them super heated, then trounce around in puddles. Don't burn them up, then keep the pads on the rotors, etc. I'm at a year on this set of normal rotors and haven't had a problem. Ceramics are going in though to shut up the pads and stop dusting.
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Old 07-07-2005, 08:29 AM   #19
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Once you have ceramic you never want to go back to regular pads. It'* just a fact of life.
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Old 07-07-2005, 10:08 AM   #20
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Bill..

I checked out RSM'* site and this is what I found:

Quote:
1988-1996 Front Rotor P/N: RO2GWF-50091988-1996 Rear Rotor P/N: RO2GWR-50102000-2005 Front Rotor P/N: RO3GWF-50112000-2005 Rear Rotor P/N: RO3GWR-5012
I don't see anything for the 1997-1999 models. I emailed their support folks and all they replied back with is "where are you from?" LOL.

Anyway, aren't the rotors all the same size from 1992 to 1999? And what'* this stuff on the site about "rear rotors"? Since when? Did I miss something about a rear disc brake option?!?!
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