Rotors - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


General GM Chat When starting new posts, please specify YEAR, MAKE, MODEL, ENGINE type, and whatever modifications you have made. Chat about all things GM (and related cars). Off-topic stuff should be in the Lounge, and all Model specific mechanical problems should be posted in the proper forum.

Reply
 
 
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 07-06-2005, 10:07 AM   #1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Purgatory
Posts: 0
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
vital49 is on a distinguished road
Default Rotors

What are you guys using for rotors?

I'm getting very frustrated with my Bonnie. I can't seem to keep a set of rotors for more than 10,000 miles before they warp...BADLY. I've tried all the various brands at AutoZone and Advance and to no avail, they all suck!!

I know Bonnies are tough on rotors, but there has to be a better solution.

How about the stock GM rotors? How much life should I get out of one of them?
vital49 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-06-2005, 10:12 AM   #2
DINOSAURUS BOOSTUS

Expert Gearhead
 
BillBoost37's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Enfield, CT
Posts: 41,391
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
BillBoost37 is a glorious beacon of lightBillBoost37 is a glorious beacon of lightBillBoost37 is a glorious beacon of lightBillBoost37 is a glorious beacon of lightBillBoost37 is a glorious beacon of lightBillBoost37 is a glorious beacon of light
Default

You shouldn't be warping unless you are brutal on them. CFoote had warpage problems with his performance rotors and yet I have nothing on either and I have no idea what cheap rotor is on these cars.
BillBoost37 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-06-2005, 10:23 AM   #3
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Purgatory
Posts: 0
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
vital49 is on a distinguished road
Default

Ya, I'm pretty stumped by it too.

I'm not hard on the car whatsoever. I've never had this issue on any other car than the Bonneville so I don't think it'* my driving habits. The really frustrating thing is that when I change the rotors, the pads still look like brand new. I chew through rotors much faster than I do pads.

I'm just looking for a brand that will give me some good longevity. Price, at this point, isn't too much of a concern.
vital49 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-06-2005, 10:24 AM   #4
Senior Member
True Car Nut
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 3,993
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
JimmyFloyd is on a distinguished road
Default

I know someone here told me when I asked about what to get to just get the cheapest rotors and then instead of getting them turned, just replace them. I, myself, think there is probably a better solution, but I will let someone else give you that as I don't have much experience yet with brakes.
JimmyFloyd is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-06-2005, 10:26 AM   #5
DINOSAURUS BOOSTUS

Expert Gearhead
 
BillBoost37's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Enfield, CT
Posts: 41,391
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
BillBoost37 is a glorious beacon of lightBillBoost37 is a glorious beacon of lightBillBoost37 is a glorious beacon of lightBillBoost37 is a glorious beacon of lightBillBoost37 is a glorious beacon of lightBillBoost37 is a glorious beacon of light
Default

One possibility of it is to buy the lifetime (aka 2 yrs) from Advance or Autozone. W/in 2 years ensure they are warped. Bring them in for replacement as defective.

I have no idea why mine aren't warped. Ask Randy or Cfoote... I use the engine and brakes on my vehicles and they respond well.
BillBoost37 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-06-2005, 10:39 AM   #6
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Purgatory
Posts: 0
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
vital49 is on a distinguished road
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by JimmyFloyd
I know someone here told me when I asked about what to get to just get the cheapest rotors and then instead of getting them turned, just replace them. I, myself, think there is probably a better solution, but I will let someone else give you that as I don't have much experience yet with brakes.
Yes, that'* exactly what I've been doing all along. The cheapies at AutoZone are $14 each. Getting them turned costs $8 each. So, I always just buy fresh...have never gotten them turned.
vital49 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-06-2005, 10:42 AM   #7
DINOSAURUS BOOSTUS

Expert Gearhead
 
BillBoost37's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Enfield, CT
Posts: 41,391
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
BillBoost37 is a glorious beacon of lightBillBoost37 is a glorious beacon of lightBillBoost37 is a glorious beacon of lightBillBoost37 is a glorious beacon of lightBillBoost37 is a glorious beacon of lightBillBoost37 is a glorious beacon of light
Default

$14 OMG... that'* super cheap.
BillBoost37 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-06-2005, 10:59 AM   #8
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Purgatory
Posts: 0
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
vital49 is on a distinguished road
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by BillBost37
$14 OMG... that'* super cheap.
It is...but when you drive 40,000 / year it adds up.

$14 x 2 = $28. They last 10,000 miles, so $28 x 4 = $112.

Not the end of the world in cost, but just frustrating...

Bottom line is that I just need a rotor that lasts!
vital49 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-06-2005, 11:06 AM   #9
Junior Member
Posts like a Ricer Type-R
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Posts: 10
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
willwren is on a distinguished road
Default

I had your problem, and it'* a multi-part fix. Start with rotors from RSM. But get anal. Use a stiff wire brush to clean the face of the hub before you put the rotors on. Then do the same to the back face of your wheels and the front face of the rotor so you don't have any turds in between. Not even a spec of dust. Now lightly spray a light oil (not WD-40, that ain't oil, it'* solvent) on the rustable surfaces and the lug threads.

Soak your lugs in oil overnight. The oil on the studs and lugs will insure even torque.

Now torque your wheels in a 'skip' pattern to 50, then 75, then 100 ft/lbs in progression.

Slightly uneven wheel torque, crud behind the rotor or between the rotor and wheel, and the quality of the rotors all have an effect.

I have no more problems now.
willwren is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-06-2005, 11:11 AM   #10
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Purgatory
Posts: 0
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
vital49 is on a distinguished road
Default

Thanks for the tip Bill...

I'll definitely pick up a set of those rotors. Do you know who sells them for the best price? I'll also let those lugs soak like you recommended.

I should have mentioned in my earlier posts that I always use a torque wrench to tighten the lugs to 100 ft. lbs. Oops!
vital49 is offline   Reply With Quote
 
 
Reply

Related Topics
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
What Color should I paint my Calipers/Rotors? Bassplayincrowe General GM Chat 18 06-22-2003 01:24 AM
Heres Some Pics of G2 gold Calipers!w/ new RSM rotors & Nytro67 Your Ride: GM Pictures & Videos 24 06-11-2003 11:42 AM
New Product from DP - brake rotors willwren Performance, Brainstorming & Tuning 21 11-27-2002 12:08 PM
10" or 12" rotors? willwren 1992-1999 7 11-16-2002 05:07 PM
2002 rotors and trunk leak futuregaze 1992-1999 2 09-04-2002 08:02 PM


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -4. The time now is 08:59 PM.


We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites.