What are you guys using for rotors?

I'm getting very frustrated with my Bonnie. I can't seem to keep a set of rotors for more than 10,000 miles before they warp...BADLY. I've tried all the various brands at AutoZone and Advance and to no avail, they all suck!!

I know Bonnies are tough on rotors, but there has to be a better solution.

How about the stock GM rotors? How much life should I get out of one of them?

You shouldn't be warping unless you are brutal on them. CFoote had warpage problems with his performance rotors and yet I have nothing on either and I have no idea what cheap rotor is on these cars.

Ya, I'm pretty stumped by it too.

I'm not hard on the car whatsoever. I've never had this issue on any other car than the Bonneville so I don't think it'* my driving habits. The really frustrating thing is that when I change the rotors, the pads still look like brand new. I chew through rotors much faster than I do pads.

I'm just looking for a brand that will give me some good longevity. Price, at this point, isn't too much of a concern.

I know someone here told me when I asked about what to get to just get the cheapest rotors and then instead of getting them turned, just replace them. I, myself, think there is probably a better solution, but I will let someone else give you that as I don't have much experience yet with brakes.

One possibility of it is to buy the lifetime (aka 2 yrs) from Advance or Autozone. W/in 2 years ensure they are warped. Bring them in for replacement as defective.

I have no idea why mine aren't warped. Ask Randy or Cfoote... I use the engine and brakes on my vehicles and they respond well.

Yes, that'* exactly what I've been doing all along. The cheapies at AutoZone are $14 each. Getting them turned costs $8 each. So, I always just buy fresh...have never gotten them turned.

$14 OMG... that'* super cheap.

It is...but when you drive 40,000 / year it adds up.

$14 x 2 = $28. They last 10,000 miles, so $28 x 4 = $112.

Not the end of the world in cost, but just frustrating...

Bottom line is that I just need a rotor that lasts!

I had your problem, and it'* a multi-part fix. Start with rotors from RSM. But get anal. Use a stiff wire brush to clean the face of the hub before you put the rotors on. Then do the same to the back face of your wheels and the front face of the rotor so you don't have any turds in between. Not even a spec of dust. Now lightly spray a light oil (not WD-40, that ain't oil, it'* solvent) on the rustable surfaces and the lug threads.

Soak your lugs in oil overnight. The oil on the studs and lugs will insure even torque.

Now torque your wheels in a 'skip' pattern to 50, then 75, then 100 ft/lbs in progression.

Slightly uneven wheel torque, crud behind the rotor or between the rotor and wheel, and the quality of the rotors all have an effect.

I have no more problems now.

Thanks for the tip Bill...

I'll definitely pick up a set of those rotors. Do you know who sells them for the best price? I'll also let those lugs soak like you recommended.

I should have mentioned in my earlier posts that I always use a torque wrench to tighten the lugs to 100 ft. lbs. Oops!