I noticed last night when chaging my trans line, that I have one Stab link that looks brand new, it has blue bushings inside of it..Question then: Would that stab bar needed to of been removed to change the tranny? If so, I think my trans guy did it, but probably had to grind that one out, were as maybe the other one simple un bolted....If so, im gunna talk to him and see what type he used so i can get the matching twin for it.

Matt, are you talking about the stabilizer (sway) bar end link? I am not sure it would need to be removed but depending on the removal method for the trany, it may have made it easier. They probably broke a component of the link during it'* removal...I think the Moog bushings are blue if I am not mistaken.

Look carefully:



Unless they didn't drop the whole subframe, in which case I'd guess you have new endlink bushings on the driver'* side, but not the passenger side.

They would have had to remove the drive axles and I know that you have to disconnect the Stab link to remove it. It'* common for the bolts to break if there is any corrosion on the threads.
They use hard white nylon for my WS6 cars. Polyurathane bushings are good but without lubrication, will squeak.
I replaced all the other rubber stock bushings with Red Polyurethane in my Bird 25 years ago. After about 3 years the squeaks drove me to replace them with Carbon Graphite impregnated Polyurathane bushings. Better, it lasted about 5 years and then started squeaking again.
So I dismantled and lubed every one of them with my special potion of nickel never-sieze mixed with carbon graphite powder.
No squeaks for some time now but any I have done lately have been with only greaseable (grease nipple and grease grooves) black carbon Polyurathane.
The hardness of the front sway bar is a minor but significant contributor to the handling performance. The harder it is, the more your car will understeer or push in a corner but it will feel tighter with sharper response.
Tighten up the backend an equivalent amount concurently, to maintain balance.

Not true. I just did my gf'* 97 GPGT transmission a week ago, and I did my transmission a few months ago. Neither of those did I have to remove the link, I just disconnected the ball joints from the knuckles and dropped the cradle with the swaybar, swaybar links, and control arms all attached. I'll be replacing a Pressure Control Solenoid in a 99 Intrigue 3.5 tomrorow, and same thing on that one -- disconnect the ball joint from the knuckle and lower the driver'* side of the cradle down with a screw jack.

CS That for when dropping the subframe like in Bills picture.
Thanks, makes sense now

With the subframe out... I hope Bill cleaned and painted it.