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Old 12-27-2006, 07:50 AM   #11
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John...I recently gave that a try when swapping a downpipe. The nuts on the converter did come off easier than I thought they should...but who knows.
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Old 12-27-2006, 10:04 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Regal_Kid_05
Chinski : How exactly did you go about using your heat method?
Well.....the propane torch wasn't giving enough heat, so we finally got out the oxy-acetylene cutting torch and heated the bracket till it was red hot, and I mean RED hot. Still took a cheater bar and a good amount of grunt but we got the bolt out. And yeah, you gotta drain all the brake fluid and get things out of the way. I was replacing the caliper anyway so I was not worried about damaging it. I was not too thrilled that we had to put so much heat on the bracket, so I don't want to recommend it.
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Old 12-27-2006, 11:49 AM   #13
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The heat will only tend to soften hardened parts.

As long as you don't chill the unhardened heated parts very slowly, then will not become brittle.

It'* a good trick if you want to bend or deform a metal part. Heat it up cherry red and then pound on it. Forging at its best.
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Old 12-27-2006, 12:42 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BillBoost37
John...I recently gave that a try when swapping a downpipe. The nuts on the converter did come off easier than I thought they should...but who knows.
I haven't tried the stuff yet, but it'* made by a reputable company, and sounds like a better idea than heat/open flame near flammable materials/liquids
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Old 01-01-2007, 11:22 PM   #15
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Well, got back from vacation and went to work. I removed the caliper first to get stuff out of the way and then I used an oxy/mapp torch which did the trick. Thanks for all the suggestions.
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