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Old 12-26-2006, 02:54 PM   #1
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Default Removing stubborn bolts

Well, I decided it was time to replace my wheel bearing since it was starting to go bad now that I am on break from school. Got the axle nut off no problem, wheel off, and now I'm to the caliper. I've been spraying the two T-60 bolts for two days now and they won't budge. I tried using a cheater bar and broke the T-60 socket but didn't damage the head thankfully. Next I tried some heat to expand the casting then cool the bollt, which didn't seem to do much. And lastly I tried using an impact wrench and still nothing. Not to mention this whole time I've been continually spraying it with the PB and "tapping" it with a hammer to "shock it".

I already have the wheel bearing and I don't have the money to pay someone else to do it. I think I'm just going to keep spraying it and try to get a better impact from my dads buddy. Anybody have any suggestions??
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Old 12-26-2006, 03:01 PM   #2
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The last time I had a situation like that, the grease had solidified inside the bracket and pretty much "welded" the bolt in. I had to replace the bracket.

I don't recall if the bolts on your car will have enough room, but if they are ones that stick out of the boot some, I've resorted to putting a small pipe wrench with a pipe extension on the end to get them out. Of course, the bolts have to be replaced after that.
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Old 12-26-2006, 03:01 PM   #3
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Being that you are lookin at it backwards. Are you sure that you are loosening it and not tightening it?
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Old 12-26-2006, 03:55 PM   #4
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I had the same problem with my rear caliper on my old Lumina. We did finally get it out but I would bet that the strength of the bracket was compromised because of all the heat we used. Replacing the bracket is the safe way to go. Or maybe you will have to drill it out? Probably not much room to do that with it on the car though.
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Old 12-26-2006, 05:46 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BillBoost37
Being that you are lookin at it backwards. Are you sure that you are loosening it and not tightening it?
Good question, I know I have never done that.
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Old 12-26-2006, 07:59 PM   #6
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Quote:
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Being that you are lookin at it backwards. Are you sure that you are loosening it and not tightening it?
Good question, I know I have never done that.
Me either
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Old 12-26-2006, 09:25 PM   #7
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Niether have I.

If it is just stuck that tight and you are going the right way, borrow someones Snap-On T-60. If that breaks, your screwed. The guys tool is warrantied, so he is good...but your screwed.
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Old 12-26-2006, 11:43 PM   #8
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Yes, I am sure that I'm going the right way. I kept telling myself that I could be going the wrong way so I fake did it like I was working of something in front of me and then just flipped the ratchet/impact wrench around.

Sounds like there is no miracle cure..... Would there be any specific way to help get it out if it had loc-tite applied to the bolt? I know it had been replaced before so who knows how it was put back in

Chinski : How exactly did you go about using your heat method?
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Old 12-27-2006, 01:30 AM   #9
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I've heard of the heat method. You apply heat (small butane torch, etc) to soften the metals and kinda cook the rust off. Problem is, you got brake lines and stuff in that area with flamable liquids running through them

Which brings me to the product I saw on Two Guys Garage this weekend. Freeze-Off™ Super Penetrant

Quote:
A unique formula that immediately drops the temperature of the area in direct contact with the spray. The freezing effect cracks rusted surfaces, allowing Freeze-Off™ to reach deeper & work more effectively than other penetrants.
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Old 12-27-2006, 02:50 AM   #10
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Heating or freezing, the idea is the same, to crack the rust bond and free up the fastener.
You usually have to heat it up till it smokes and turns red.

If that doesn't work, then cutting and drilling is the last ditch effort.
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