Oil and Filter recommendations
Senior Member
Posts like a Turbo
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 254
Likes: 0
From: Sellersville, PA
Just changed mine today with Vavoline 10w30 and a Purolator Filter. $14.99 from Pep Boys and I mailed away for a $5.00 rebate. $9.99- can't beat that.
I agree that the Fram Filters are horrible.
I agree that the Fram Filters are horrible.
Administratus Emeritus
Certified Car Nut
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 16,539
Likes: 18
From: Purgatory, Pennsylvania
No sticky. It doesn't have a sticky value. The only thing this thread has discerned is everybody has a fav. In the long run. Oil isn't a new science. And today'* major brands are all up to the task of protecting for the normal amount of time used.
DINOSAURUS BOOSTUS
Expert Gearhead
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 41,391
Likes: 30
From: Enfield, CT
Todd asked me to comment on this thread.
It'* a good thread, one that is frequently repeated on various forums. A great resource for factual info is Bobistheoilguy.com Bob does a lot of testing etc. Also Blackstone labs does oil analysis for a relatively low cost. Two great tools when determining what is best for your car.
Many questions arise.. when asking what the best oil for your car. Do you want:
MPG?
Lubrication?
Durability from the oil?
Longer lasting oil?
Lower cost?
More pressure?
These and many other things need to be considered. Then there are the questions of do or will an additive help? Tons of stuff to be thought about and considered. Where does the whirlwind end... with what you feel/learn that your needs are.
For my vehicles, I like to change the oil more frequently based on having seen many cars with sludge buildup in the lifter valley from infrequent changes. My beliefs are that the detergents and cleanliness of fresh oil keeps the inside of the motor cleaner. My SSEi was sludgy at 140K when I changed LIM gaskets. At 186K I again changed them to do more work and the valley was beautifully clean, looked like an entirely different motor. All that was done to it was oil changes every 3K miles. I'm not a fan of adding a cleaner to the oil, the sludge formed slowly.. remove it slowly. Adding a cleaner may allow a chunk to lodge somewhere and block an oil port, starving a bearing etc of oil. This is simply one guy'* take on the question. Obviously some folks do use cleaners with success...my personal preference is not to use one.
Which oil is best for you.. should be a decision we all become informed about and choose ourselves. The viscosity is another. I tend to have a performance based engine at this point and I run a 10w-30 all year. For me oil pressure is important when I'm revving the motor and beating it. Too much pressure can also be bad. For my climate 10w-30 is a good middle of the road.
It'* a good thread, one that is frequently repeated on various forums. A great resource for factual info is Bobistheoilguy.com Bob does a lot of testing etc. Also Blackstone labs does oil analysis for a relatively low cost. Two great tools when determining what is best for your car.
Many questions arise.. when asking what the best oil for your car. Do you want:
MPG?
Lubrication?
Durability from the oil?
Longer lasting oil?
Lower cost?
More pressure?
These and many other things need to be considered. Then there are the questions of do or will an additive help? Tons of stuff to be thought about and considered. Where does the whirlwind end... with what you feel/learn that your needs are.
For my vehicles, I like to change the oil more frequently based on having seen many cars with sludge buildup in the lifter valley from infrequent changes. My beliefs are that the detergents and cleanliness of fresh oil keeps the inside of the motor cleaner. My SSEi was sludgy at 140K when I changed LIM gaskets. At 186K I again changed them to do more work and the valley was beautifully clean, looked like an entirely different motor. All that was done to it was oil changes every 3K miles. I'm not a fan of adding a cleaner to the oil, the sludge formed slowly.. remove it slowly. Adding a cleaner may allow a chunk to lodge somewhere and block an oil port, starving a bearing etc of oil. This is simply one guy'* take on the question. Obviously some folks do use cleaners with success...my personal preference is not to use one.
Which oil is best for you.. should be a decision we all become informed about and choose ourselves. The viscosity is another. I tend to have a performance based engine at this point and I run a 10w-30 all year. For me oil pressure is important when I'm revving the motor and beating it. Too much pressure can also be bad. For my climate 10w-30 is a good middle of the road.
Retired Administrator
True Car Nut
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 2,906
Likes: 194
From: Williamsport, PA
Autozone is running a special through 13JAN2010 for 5 quarts of Castrol GTX synthetic and Fram toughguard filter for $19.95. Limit two.
I normally would not pay for synthetic but the posts on this thread have me rethinking it. I drove the crap out of a 1997 Bravada to 230,000 miles using conventional bulk oil in a 4.3L engine and never had any engine issues or loss of oil. Gave the car to a high school kid and it is still running strong (engine that is, everything else failed numerous times).
I normally would not pay for synthetic but the posts on this thread have me rethinking it. I drove the crap out of a 1997 Bravada to 230,000 miles using conventional bulk oil in a 4.3L engine and never had any engine issues or loss of oil. Gave the car to a high school kid and it is still running strong (engine that is, everything else failed numerous times).
