I agree. You'd be better off doing it the right way now. If you rig it, you'll end up having to do it the right way sooner or later anyway.

Dropping the pan is not tough. The gaskets is preformed and shouldn't slide around too much. Don't use any RTV, just make sure everything is 100% dry. Cleanliness is most important.

So, what you're saying is... do it right.

The toughest part about it is removing the 2 oil lines that cover the two bolts on the passenger side. I only get one wee little turn at a time. Takes forever. And I'll have to do it twice. The extra is still on a car.

Ratcheting wrenches are nice... Good investment.

Didn't think about those, only time i've been around a 3800 oil pan removal, it was out of the car.

you could get a single oversized drain plug with a secondary plug like they sell at pretty much any auto parts store in the world. This would be a permanent fix as the plug itself would stay in the pan but it would have another little plug in the end of it to take out to let the oil drain. Just make sure that if you take it to some crap azz quick lube they dont pull the whole plug instead of the mini plug, cause then yer forced to get a new pan.

Does the hole need drilled or does it thread it self? Sounds like it'* big enough to need drilled.

I wouldn't risk putting in a bigger plug. That will just introduce metal shavings into the pan and could lead to shavings in the bearings or scoring the cylinder walls.

Just do it the right way... My $.02...

they cut there own threads

Then where do the shavings end up?

That'* my point....

you do have a point...however ive seen this on hundreds of cars and miraculousley NONE of them had any engine problems...must be those tiny shavings end up filtered out by that little thing we like to call an OIL FILTER!

Back to my original thought. Thread FORMING screw. They make new threads by displacing material, not cutting it out of the way.