You could do a cheap junkyard N/A 3800 topswap like I did.

All options are still on the table. Waiting on a price of a short block right now.

Right now, only 3 bolts hold the engine in place. After I pick my son up from school, I'll get the lift on it, and out it comes.

It'* true. He made me do it for my cam install. Fortunately, I didn't have any glitter in the oil. Photobucket is down for maintenance, so I can't see if yours was shiny or not.

If you're good at tuning, which you advertise that you are, give your supercharger a break and think about an L36 bottom end. You know the benefits, and chances are it'* cheaper than an L67 bottom.

Actually, I'm talking to someone about a rebuilt L37 short block. I then need to pulley up .3"

I do believe I have found the cause. Once photobucket gets back up I can upload them. I did a run out test on my flex plate. Speck has a 3 thousandths max. I found 11 thousandths in round, and 30 thousandths in warp. That'* 10x out of spec. I imagine I hit just that right RPM and it'* all over. I'll know for sure after I flip the engine and pull the mains. But after doing a lot of reading, main bearings sound a lot like rod bearings. My last engine I pulled all the pistons and inspected the bearings, but never pulled the mains. Now I wish I had.

I like the 'CONFIRMED'

Once I pull the mains I'll have pictures.

OK, got some pictures now.

Engine ready to come out, again.


Say ahhhhh.


Time to test the flex plate.


Set the dial.


This was the high said, another part was about 8 or 9 thousandths below the zero. had a total warp of about 30 thousandths. Max spec is 3


Now to check center.


Total run out was about 10 thousandths.


Once again, a big hole where a engine should be.


Well, guess I'm ripping this apart again.

was fine in my car and had plenty of life left in her! god i miss my car!!!

I would have never guessed the flex plate was the killer... is this the same flex plate from the last engine?