Looking for pics/info of fuel sending units (92-96) - Page 2 - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


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Old 07-11-2005, 08:19 PM   #11
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I need to bump this topic as the time for a solution is very near. I'm guessing that a 94-96 sending unit is what I need. Maybe 92-93 will work but that'* why I need pics.

Who has parts cars???
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Old 07-11-2005, 09:18 PM   #12
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I do, but have not dropped the tank on it. I can check the junkyards when I go to see if there are any I can get at. How would I go about dropping the tank to get at that? This is also assuming that I can get under the car enough. They don't put them in the air at the ones up here.
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Old 07-12-2005, 07:21 AM   #13
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Around here, the tank is one of the first things pulled from the car. I think they line 'em all up and run them over with a bulldoser. Then the rest of the car is then stacked in the yard. That'* why I've been having a tough time finding one.

If you do happen to find one, I don't think it'* going to be very easy. The car needs to be elevated so the exhaust and heat shields can be dropped first. then the tank is next.

Do you have a 94-96 parts car? I'd have to experiment with a 92-93 cause the lines are somewhat different than 94+. I've kinda abandoned the idea of just changing the reheostat because of wthat Dame has said and more of my own research and now I'm thinking of changing the whole sender.
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Old 07-12-2005, 10:04 AM   #14
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the yards here have no such EPA worries. Some of the cars are just driven out in the yard and left. The 92 PA I pulled the charger from still had gas in the fuel lines... In bingo though, they do drain them. I'll check for a 94-96. I think they had a 96 SE in there, but unsure if I can get to it. After this weekend I might be able to since I am going to the getting my dad'* farmer'* jack.
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Old 07-12-2005, 10:29 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by randman1
Around here, the tank is one of the first things pulled from the car. I think they line 'em all up and run them over with a bulldoser. Then the rest of the car is then stacked in the yard. That'* why I've been having a tough time finding one.

If you do happen to find one, I don't think it'* going to be very easy. The car needs to be elevated so the exhaust and heat shields can be dropped first. then the tank is next.

Do you have a 94-96 parts car? I'd have to experiment with a 92-93 cause the lines are somewhat different than 94+. I've kinda abandoned the idea of just changing the reheostat because of wthat Dame has said and more of my own research and now I'm thinking of changing the whole sender.
Stay away from the 95!!!!! (97 is safely here)
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Old 07-28-2005, 12:36 AM   #16
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Ok Randy.... The pics are not perfect.... I did take my digital multimeter out with me and tested it.... On mine it was at 0 Ohms for empty and 100-110 Ohms full... Other than that the unit almost looks the same as what you have in the pic... Looks like a 95 sending unit assembly may work for you...

II think Bills car is over there somewhere... You could borrow parts... J/K...


Here are a few of the Assembly..










Pics aren't that great but I hope they help...

And is that bad boy huge or what...?


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Old 07-28-2005, 03:24 AM   #17
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Woah! Excellent pics, Don.

I noticed that the reheostat is a permanent part of the sender unit. It would be great to just change that. But it does seem as if the 95 you show is what I need. I'm wondering if the 100-110 ohms is perhaps a tollerence difference. I believe I read in Bill'* manual that it is 90 for full. I can read the replacement 90 resistance just for a comparison when daylight comes.

The only other thing I ask is if you can give me an idea of length of the lines that are outside the tank. It'* not necessary to post another pic but if you can confirm that the longest line (supply line) is roughly 16" in length from the center of the sender unit, that would be awesome.

Thank you
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Old 07-28-2005, 10:40 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by randman1
Woah! Excellent pics, Don.

I noticed that the reheostat is a permanent part of the sender unit. It would be great to just change that. But it does seem as if the 95 you show is what I need. I'm wondering if the 100-110 ohms is perhaps a tollerence difference. I believe I read in Bill'* manual that it is 90 for full. I can read the replacement 90 resistance just for a comparison when daylight comes.

The only other thing I ask is if you can give me an idea of length of the lines that are outside the tank. It'* not necessary to post another pic but if you can confirm that the longest line (supply line) is roughly 16" in length from the center of the sender unit, that would be awesome.

Thank you
I have to assume that you are correct.... You should see how far east the fuel gage goes when I fill her all the way up... And funny thing, after the new pump and the sending unit/pump assembly reinstall, Check gages for the low fuel now works again...LMAO Ding Ding Ding....lol

I wish I would have measured it for you Randy... Its back in the car, but I think I can snapp a pic of plastic lines and where they are located under the body if you like... May give you an idea of distance... 2nd thought, I'll go out in a bit and snapp the pics...

Anyone know the distance of a Kenmore 70 series washer from the front to the control pannel? Randy I do believe that the lines are the same length as what you had in the pic...

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Old 07-28-2005, 10:45 AM   #19
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That Kenmore 70 series pic is perfect. Those are the right length.

Randy..are we going to pull the 95 tank and give it a shot before buying the new sending unit?
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Old 07-28-2005, 10:50 AM   #20
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Bill I forget if the 95 SSEi had the same pump assembly... I'm thinking its got to be close or the same... Not even sure if they use the same fuel pump.. The 95 SSEi ran at 41-47 PSI, I think the series II 3800 SC used the same pressure as the 3800 L36, 48-55 PSI... It will be very interesting to get it all figgured out tho..

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