Spent the weekend installing lower and upper ball joints on a 1999 Bravada. Getting the rivets out is a challenge. Only finished the left side, will do the right side in a few weeks. Also replaced the pads and rotors while I had them off. Will replace the wheel bearing and half axle when I do the right side- parts are reasonably cheap and they are high failure items- so while I have the knuckle off I might as well spend an extra $200 in parts (axle and wheel hub/ bearing) and have it match what I replaced on the left side three weeks ago. We like the Bravada because it is full frame- yet has a small footprint. They are known for maintenance issues so hopefully we can maintain it before it fails and keep it a long time. Last Bravada went 230k and we gave it to a high school kid, this Bravada bought used (10 years old 60k miles one owner) now has 77k miles on it. The lower left ball joint failed- so I am replacing them all.

My torque wrench broke- so I had to tighten without it. (upper ball joint, lower ball joint and tie rod). I am sure I overtightened rather than overtightened- and can tell this as the cotter pin hole we towards the bottom of the castle nut.

Question- had bad is it that I overtightened the ball joints?

Should be fine.

They will only pull in so far. Most mechanics don't torque these, they "good'n'tight' them. You should be fine.

Rivets fought eh?

Like Bill said, these are shoulder bolts, so they seat and that'* it. Once the castle nut is in place and the cotter pin is used, it wont move.

Thanks for responses- gives piece of mind.... Never did ball joints before...

Meh, I have seldom used a torque wrench on them. Just one of those, "give it all an experienced hand thinks a nut can handle. Naturally there is a point where you can apply enough pressure to not immediately break threaded shaft but cause it to shear upon stress. But we have no way of knowing how far you over torqued or the shear point. So the question really isn't able to be answered.