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Old 06-23-2006, 10:31 AM   #11
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I'm sure it can be....might only be available as a rebuild kit for the whole calliper though.
I guess I will have to look into it. If the caliper is supposed to be "floating" on that piece and I have to press it in and out, I can't see how it would float very well.
yeah it floats on that bolt... where your pads worn un even?
His rotors were from the sounds of it...lol
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Old 06-23-2006, 10:31 AM   #12
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I'm sure it can be....might only be available as a rebuild kit for the whole calliper though.
I guess I will have to look into it. If the caliper is supposed to be "floating" on that piece and I have to press it in and out, I can't see how it would float very well.
yeah it floats on that bolt... where your pads worn un even?
didn't even bother to look, since I planned to replace them anyways. I guess that can be something I look at tonight.

edit....yeah bossty is right, my rotors were....but that was probably from heat and my driving style
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Old 06-23-2006, 10:41 AM   #13
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yeah because if they are worn uneven then your caliper is not working to its 100%...
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Old 06-23-2006, 10:42 AM   #14
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do you mean worn uneven from side to side (pad to pad) or from one side of a pad to the other?
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Old 06-23-2006, 10:45 AM   #15
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do you mean worn uneven from side to side (pad to pad) or from one side of a pad to the other?
innor pad to outer pad... they should be prety close.. mine had about 1/4" diffrence...

it was my bottum bolt on the driver side that was the PITA..
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Old 06-23-2006, 10:46 AM   #16
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Frequently you will find if a mechanic "pad slaps" (replaces only the pads) on your car, that they don't take the time to remove the slide bolts, clean and lube them.

This leads to the issues of sticking and as you both found...tough to get them out and lube properly.
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Old 06-23-2006, 10:48 AM   #17
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1/4" is a HUGE difference. if mine has a difference it is not obvious like that. I'll pull out the micrometers or dial calipers tonight....measurements to the 1/1000ths haha.

That same bolt was the hard one for me, lower driver side...what a pita
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Old 06-23-2006, 10:51 AM   #18
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Originally Posted by BillBoost37
Frequently you will find if a mechanic "pad slaps" (replaces only the pads) on your car, that they don't take the time to remove the slide bolts, clean and lube them.

This leads to the issues of sticking and as you both found...tough to get them out and lube properly.
well seeing as how my parents had a midas shop do the first 1 or 2 brake jobs on the car I guess I should be happy at how easily they did come out....interesting to know though.
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Old 06-23-2006, 01:10 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BillBoost37
Frequently you will find if a mechanic "pad slaps" (replaces only the pads) on your car, that they don't take the time to remove the slide bolts, clean and lube them.

This leads to the issues of sticking and as you both found...tough to get them out and lube properly.
Yup I always have a container of synthetic brake lube.... I take brake cleaner and clean the slides and the rubber boots for the caliper slides... Then I lube everythig and smear the slides good... I have never had a slide stick

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Old 06-23-2006, 01:58 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by BillBoost37
Frequently you will find if a mechanic "pad slaps" (replaces only the pads) on your car, that they don't take the time to remove the slide bolts, clean and lube them.

This leads to the issues of sticking and as you both found...tough to get them out and lube properly.
Yup I always have a container of synthetic brake lube.... I take brake cleaner and clean the slides and the rubber boots for the caliper slides... Then I lube everythig and smear the slides good... I have never had a slide stick
well I am going to have to do that, along with getting new slides. Any company name for the brake lube?

Do you know if I can replace the rubber things the slides go in? since they are so gummed up with old lube.
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