I didn't want to trade my Bonne for a hybrid but *ITS HERE* - Page 3 - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


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Old 10-01-2006, 06:04 AM   #21
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Your car looks pretty nice! Another SE! (Pretty certain it has the SLE package.) -What do you mean by the driving lights will be gone??? For dents and door dings, look up Dent Wizards in your area, I had them remove all the door-dings in my Bonneville and my wife'* Grand Prix. 92K is pretty good for a 1998, I'm at around 95,500 on my 1997 and I only drive it to and from work. At that mileage I recommend you keep a close eye on your coolant level. Maybe mark it with tape on the outside of the reservoir when the car is cold, then check it every month. As soon as you see coolant start to disappear, get your upper intake and your upper and lower intake manifold gaskets replaced in a hurry. At 92000+ I'm surprised if yours have never been done. If they haven't, keep an eye on them. They fail.
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Old 10-01-2006, 09:24 AM   #22
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Nice clean ride, man. Best of luck with it. : )
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Old 10-01-2006, 11:43 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bugsi
Your car looks pretty nice! Another SE! (Pretty certain it has the SLE package.) -What do you mean by the driving lights will be gone??? For dents and door dings, look up Dent Wizards in your area, I had them remove all the door-dings in my Bonneville and my wife'* Grand Prix. 92K is pretty good for a 1998, I'm at around 95,500 on my 1997 and I only drive it to and from work. At that mileage I recommend you keep a close eye on your coolant level. Maybe mark it with tape on the outside of the reservoir when the car is cold, then check it every month. As soon as you see coolant start to disappear, get your upper intake and your upper and lower intake manifold gaskets replaced in a hurry. At 92000+ I'm surprised if yours have never been done. If they haven't, keep an eye on them. They fail.
Im disabling DRL, hate them with a passion. Anyway to tell if the gaskets or the whole intake manifold has been replaced? Car comes with no records of service... Also this isnt a problem on the S1 at all is it?
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Old 10-01-2006, 01:07 PM   #24
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Look at the datestamp on the top of the UIM. If it'* a few years newer than the car you've got your answer
Series I didn't have this issue, no.
If you haven't done so - ready this:
http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...e=article&k=38
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Old 10-01-2006, 02:50 PM   #25
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And despite the horrible design of the EGR tube going through the plastic upper intake manifold, once you take care of that problem with a new/redesigned/sleeved UIM, I have to say the L36 is a great engine. I'm still just overwhelmingly happy with my Bonneville.
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Old 10-01-2006, 04:40 PM   #26
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So is this a good deal for $4,850? Thats only $100 dollars profit on the car for the dealer. The salemen pulled out the sheet that they payed and showed him what they paid for it, and said add $100 and its a deal. Leather is almost perfect, few dings and scatches. Spoiler needs repainted, but otherwise its good, pretty fast too.

Also, what should I have the dealer and body shop look for? Car has been rear-ended at one point.
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Old 10-01-2006, 05:02 PM   #27
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I'd take the salesman'* sheet with a grain of salt. If they took it in on trade and paid out X dollars for it, they also surely made a much larger profit on the sale of a newer car to go with it. It'* a package deal to the dealer. If they made a lot on the newer car sale, they could actually take a loss on your car, and they STILL made plenty of money on the deal. Actually, what the dealer makes or loses on a car should really be of about zero interest to you. It just doesn't matter if they paid $1 or $1,000,000 for it, so long as they give you a good deal on it.

Where I live, (CA) Kelly Blue Book gives it an SRP value of around $6000, which they state is a starting point for negotiating with a dealer. So I think you did just fine. For under $5000 you could certainly do much, much worse. If I had to buy a car today and had around $5000 to spend, I'd be happy to get your car with its features.

As far as being rear-ended, this is something you want to have a third party inspect, preferably a shop that specializes in collision repair work. They know what cars go through, and they know what kinds of repairs are done right, and where someone might cut corners. If the damage wasn't overwhelming, a properly done repair can put your car back the way it should be. You should pay particular attention to the car'* alignment, frame, and suspension components. You want to check for bent balljoints and tierods, bent frame, bent exhaust, -pretty much any signs of bending, misalignment, or anything that causes your tires to wear funny. Cosmetic repairs like replaced / repainted body panels should be undetectable if done properly, with matched paint color and type. Cheap shops will use a single-step acrylic enamel paint instead of the proper base/clearcoat factory paint.
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Old 10-01-2006, 05:20 PM   #28
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Bluebook in it from a dealer here is 5,3xx cant remember the last two digits. Their asking price was right around the blue book. The salesman seems very confident in the car, and is letting us take it home sometime (will put about 280 miles on it round trip + some for test driving and driving it around town to some shops) so we can get it checked out. I am getting it checked at the body shop that does great work, fixed my Bonne up very good, paint is a perfect match. Paint is matched pretty bad on the 98, but my dad is interested in getting the spoiler, rear bumper, front bumper, hood, and small rust spot behind front passenger wheel painted.

We will see what happens, going to try and get appointments on tuesday and go pick it up tomorrow.
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Old 10-03-2006, 10:55 PM   #29
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Just got home about a half hour ago. Drives great. Who can find the 2 burnt out lights on the car? BTW its not ours yet, sale is still pending inspection. Nothing wrong with the spoiler, thats just fog on it. And can you find its twin also?

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Old 10-03-2006, 11:18 PM   #30
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fog lightm and the rear trunk mounted tail.....

the trunk mounted tail is a B itch to remove
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