How tough to replace manifold gasket/ water pump on 4.3L
#1
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How tough to replace manifold gasket/ water pump on 4.3L
Have a new addition to the family, a 1998 S10 with a 4.3L engine. Like my prior 4.3L, it does not heat past 160 degrees and loses coolant. The problem is likely a weeping water pump or failing intake manifold gasket. Both are high failure items on the 4.3L. I am debating just replacing the pump and UIM gasket rather than identify which one is the problem and then have the other fail at a later date.
My question is how hard to get the replacement UIM gasket installed correctly. Have read a few comments to include Sawgunner that lead me to think it may take a special touch to get the gasket to properly seal and seat.
Any comments/ thoughts are appreciated....
My question is how hard to get the replacement UIM gasket installed correctly. Have read a few comments to include Sawgunner that lead me to think it may take a special touch to get the gasket to properly seal and seat.
Any comments/ thoughts are appreciated....
#2
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Looking at my service manual it looks straight forward, but that may not be the case.
Remove the fan clutch, manual says you need a tool for that.
Then remove a coolant hose.
Then looks like 4 bolts and off it comes.
Looks like 2 gaskets.
The intake manifold looks straight forward as well.
Remove the EVAP purge solenoid valve
Remove the ECT wiring plug
Remove intake manifold bolts.
Remove intake manifold.
Drain your coolant before hand. Looks like that might give you a bit more room to work when you remove the water pump.
Remove the fan clutch, manual says you need a tool for that.
Then remove a coolant hose.
Then looks like 4 bolts and off it comes.
Looks like 2 gaskets.
The intake manifold looks straight forward as well.
Remove the EVAP purge solenoid valve
Remove the ECT wiring plug
Remove intake manifold bolts.
Remove intake manifold.
Drain your coolant before hand. Looks like that might give you a bit more room to work when you remove the water pump.
#4
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I also would replace the thermostat as well, just because that can contribute to the vehicle not warming up. I recall mention that the valve covers had to come out as well, but when we did this on my friends '01 blazer, we didn't need to. Biggest question, is coolant getting in to the oil? If it is, you guys may as well start prepping for a short block or motor swap. The process is fairly straight forward, but the PITA level is fairly high, given the "generous" room of the engine bay. While everything is apart, I recommend flushing out radiator, heater core, etc. Go along with the mindset of getting it all done right, the first time. When it is finished, you will probably want to set fire to the vehicle, and will never want to work on it again.
#5
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I agree, line up all the parts to do everything you can at the same time. Thermostat is right there, do the valve covers leak? If so, get new gaskets, they will be in the open, may as well get it. Clean everything you can up. Also, be sure to cover the lifter valley. You don't want any thing falling in there. Clean that area really well.
#7
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Thanks for the suggestions. I don't believe coolant is getting into the oil. I hope to acquire a pressure tester to identify exactly if the manifold gasket failed.
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