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Old 03-02-2004, 07:52 PM   #1
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Default Had my SSEi autotaped

http://www.mncgp.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=718&PN=1

With my 3.4" pulley installed. Wish I had done a run before the pulley.

What do you guys who know how to read these (I did a comparison and I am comfortable with all but the KR and Timing advance).
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Old 03-02-2004, 07:55 PM   #2
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i got dizzy
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Old 03-02-2004, 08:51 PM   #3
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Open the file with Excel and I'm sure you'll be able to have a good look.

In summary, your acceleration and speed were not done in such a way as to best capture what'* happening but here'* a couple of items;

1) Under hard acceleration you KR (knock retard) hits around 11 degrees. This means your PCM is backing off the timing a lot to keep thing peachy.

2) Your O2 readings look a little lean, seems to avaerage around 900 to 920 under WOT. Maybe something closer 940 or 950 would be more suitable.

Cheers,
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Old 03-02-2004, 09:22 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Foghorn
Open the file with Excel and I'm sure you'll be able to have a good look.

In summary, your acceleration and speed were not done in such a way as to best capture what'* happening but here'* a couple of items;

1) Under hard acceleration you KR (knock retard) hits around 11 degrees. This means your PCM is backing off the timing a lot to keep thing peachy.

2) Your O2 readings look a little lean, seems to avaerage around 900 to 920 under WOT. Maybe something closer 940 or 950 would be more suitable.

Cheers,
Basically what he said.

As he said, the way you tested it wasn't really the best. The best way that I have found is from about 5-100mph (WOT the whole time except at the beginning when you have to try to not spin the tires but still be on the gas hard). That way you get all of first and second and the beginning of 3rd and you know what they are like all the way through them at WOT and through the shifts and everything. 25-100 or so would be good too. If you can eliminate wheelspin in the beginning it will help you GREATLY because the computer won't be trying to pull as much timing. And make sure the traction control is off.

11 degrees of KR is A LOT of KR. That is a loss of 22-33 hp (they say 1 degree of KR is 2-3hp). Meaning some SSEi'* with the same mods and the stock pulley would be just as quick. 11kr is really too much KR and you are going to want to do something about it before the engine has some serious problems. The computer tries to save the engine by backing off the timing, but the engine has to knock FIRST giving the engine a chance to cause damage before the computer can do anything about it. I would try to open up your intake and exhaust as much as possible and see where you are at first. Maybe get some 1.9 rockers if that is an option for you $ wise. Also, if your t-stat isn't drilled, DRILL IT! If it is, maybe you want to go with a 160 degree drilled t-stat instead. Also, I can't remember for sure, but are TR55'* 1 or 2 ranges colder. If they are only 1 range colder, go with some Autolite 104 plugs, but if they are 2 ranges colder, go with some Autolite 103 plugs.

Also, how long have you had the TR55'* in there, and what were they gapped at? Plug gap can have a huge effect on KR.

AND PUT THAT MAF SCREEN BACK IN!!!

But contrary to what Foghorn said, I do not believe you are running rich. When I tune L67'* I try to get the 02'* to right around 910. If I'm really trying to make some power and I'm not worried about KR I'll push them down to about 900, but not lower than that. 900-920 is the optimal range. Now, because of the amount of KR you are getting, running a little richer may help you kill a degree or two of KR, but it definately won't kill all of it. In your situation I would MAYBE adjust the A/F ratio so the 02'* are around 940, but thats the most. Past that and you are hurting it more than helping IMO. But I wouldn't worry about getting a Mini-AFC or ICCU or anything like that until I did other things to try to cure the KR first.

Shawn
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Old 03-02-2004, 09:30 PM   #5
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Definetly go colder on plugs, an IC is always nice And work that CAI so it'* in a box.
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Old 03-02-2004, 10:21 PM   #6
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Quote:
Also, I can't remember for sure, but are TR55'* 1 or 2 ranges colder. If they are only 1 range colder, go with some Autolite 104 plugs, but if they are 2 ranges colder, go with some Autolite 103 plugs.

Also, how long have you had the TR55'* in there, and what were they gapped at? Plug gap can have a huge effect on KR.
The TR55'* are 1 1/2 ranges colder.
I gapped mine to near factory 0.060" setting....at 0.056".
What do you recommend?
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Old 03-03-2004, 12:00 AM   #7
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Crap! I forgot to tell you guys that I had forgotten to turn the TC off so that was on the whole time.
The TR55'sare only 1 week old (600 miles max) and are gapped @ .060, but I am going to switch over to Autolite 605'* and gap them at .057 per Liljon'* suggesting (he'* Intese authorized installer for many of Intese'* products).
I took the car out again with another GTP owner and his G-Tech Pro and we pulled off a 14.75 @92.3 MPH, so it is alot better with the TC off. With the TC on we ran a 16.90 @ 86.75 MPH. The TC gave soo much KR that it felt like the car was going to stall. Back to back run'* with the TC on with pretty much identical runs. Then turned the TC off and ran a 14.83 @ 93.2 MPH. With the TC off I rip through first so fast, and if I floor it from the stop it rips through first so fast doing a burnout that it shifts into second by the time the car is going 20mph and then it won't down-shift back into first unless I am manually shifting.
Another thing I've noticed is with the trans in PERF SHIFT it may rev higher, but it won't down shift anywhere above 2500 rpms.
Ran the codes and got P1021 (TPS).
Hope to have that replaced dang quick (hopefully by the end of next week).
Anyhow, Liljon said other than the TC causing so much KR he thought everything checked in very well.
Next week I'll be getting my resonator removed as well as the Magnaflow Wide Open 3" inlet/dual 2.5" outlets installed.
Top end power very strong now (had no problem hitting 120 MPH in a very short time on the way to work this morning) and with the exhaust worked it will probably improve even more (will lose on the low end, but with the TC off it'll help).
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Old 03-03-2004, 11:13 AM   #8
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i have found that my car loves it pig rich. 940-950 is my optimal no knock range for the 02'*. If you notice your first WOT run your 02 ares 940-950 and you have very little KR. As your further WOT runs show the car seemed to be leaning it out some and you got KR. This could be heat soak in the engine or boost stacking. i think 910 is way to lean for our cars without an IC but thats my personal opinion from experiance and talking with Scott Cook. I think the GTP pcm might be a little more forgiving in the aspect but your runs seem to back this up. I do all my runs in 2nd gear manual and WOT the whole time (trying not to spin the tires) up to about 90 mph. Thats what your going to be doing in the 1/4 mile anyway and anything above that you will hit the 3rd gear rev limiter.

I finally got my KR issues resolved after trying rockers, colder plugs, and headers to alleviate what i thought was heat issues and boost stacking. Turned out 910 to 920 was just to lean for the car.
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Old 03-03-2004, 01:51 PM   #9
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damn, this gives me second thoughts on a pulley... :(
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Old 03-03-2004, 11:28 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2000SilverBullet
The TR55'* are 1 1/2 ranges colder.
I gapped mine to near factory 0.060" setting....at 0.056".
What do you recommend?
We gapped the plugs for the SSEi and GTP at .058. You don't really have much reason to go smaller than the stock gap. .056 is fine. Some people just close the gap down to .050 or up to like .070 and that just doesn't work well without a big cam or nitrous.

Shawn
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