Just a thought.. wouldn't pluggin the heater block in help? You won't have to worry about the ice flying all thru the system as nothing is turning or moving.. and it will get rid of the ice and if there'* a leak will leave you a nice puddle without starting the car so if it'* something near the manifolds or whatever, it doesn't evaporate? I don't know.. I didn't read the whole thread thing.. just the Myth buster part.. lmao !!!

Jokes

If u have a block heater, plug that puppy in. Then take a hair blow dryer or something of equivalent heating power and warm that rad up enough so you can drain it all out. Remove both rad hoses at this time, if u can remove the tstat, do so, if not melt it out with your heat source. I wouldnt even attempt to drain the coolant out via heating the block, unless you have hours and hours on hand. leave a large pale under the lower rad hose spot overnight in a heated garage so it drains into there once it warms up. Once your done getting all the coolant out, re fill with a 50/50 Coolant Distilled water mix and maybe a new tstat. After that, my one suggestion would be do a coolant pressure test with a portable tester, really easy to do if u can get your hands on one. After that, start it up for a while, id say no longer than ten minutes. Check the oil for coolant, if the car is burning alot of thick white clouds that smell really sweet, then your burning coolant, dont run the motor for anylonger until you figure out if its the block itself or a headgasket...

The other thing you could do is remove the frozen solid block of radiator. Once removed, stand it up on edge on an angle over a pail in your basement. That would be the fastest way to thaw out the radiator.

Well that last suggestion only takes care of the rad, you still have to get all that frozen water ( ICE) out of the block.


So the heated garage still remains the best idea, you can disconnect the rad while having it sit there thawing out. The rad is one thing but the block is another.

Thanks guys for all your help. I did what you guys told me and just me luck it warmed up here also. So after letting the car run for several hours everything melted and the ice were chopped up i guess and all came out. The radiator and engine is ok now. No leaks as far as i can see. As soon as i knew it was thawed i immediatly ran 2 autozone for anti-freeze. Your tips helped save my COUGAR and BONNIE. The only thing is nowon the bonnie the temp is like near 100. If i let it sit it would eventually get to about 185 but then while driving it gets to 100-120. This was problem before i had the ICE ENGINE and everyone said that it was normal. Now by it being colder shouldn't it get hotter?

But THANX'* again!!!

If you're only gettin 100-120F I would replace the T-stat.. more then likely it'* either a fail safe T-stat which is now stuck open, or a T-stat that is stuck open. You shouldn't be running less then 170ish

You could removed the rad'* if you want.....but I can't imagine that getting the hoses off of the rad'* will be easy if they're frozen solid.

I don't see how you did what we told you. We said DO NOT START THE CAR, let it warm up in a heated garage for a day or 2, yet you went ahead and let it run for several hours.


I don't know what else to say. Good luck!

****...I missed that post......That was a BAD idea.....but glad it worked out i guess???? Can't imagine the noises the water pump was makin when it was grindin ice (BONE CHILLING)

Mmm...Actually starting it was my idea based on if the ice was mush or solid. I was saying if he could crush the ice with his hand, I wouldn't worry about it causing any damage to the steel blades in the pump. Seems like it worked out though.