hey guys. sorry ive been lax on posting lately. ive got an outside job doing a bit of everything and its about an hour away. after those 4 100*+ days in a row and burning my *** when i get in the car every day, i decided it was time for a remote start. i went to bestbuy.com, bought their $135 remote start with "free installation", got there and they wanted to charge $39ea. for every little thing (trunk, locks, hood switch etc). i promptly got my money back, and went to autozone and bought this

i was highly impressed with the quality of their product and the dvd and instructions that came with the kit. they also have a wiring chart for every car you could put this on from 96+ example

its also worth noting, if you have any questions, or are unsure of something you can call their tech support and get assistance. ive never talked to such a nice (AMERICAN) tech support person before.

if ive got any gripes about the kit, its 2 things. 1, it has a clip on cheapo keychain, which i hate, and 2, you have to wire in the locks and trunk. id of liked a system where their clicker was compatible with my car'* receiver.


pk3, or any other car with a transponder key and not a resistor you have to put a spare key in its own hole in the brain itself. (pictured) pk2 pk1 and vats, you just start the car and let it run a few minutes and it will learn the resistance value itself. another nice feature with this starter, is it uses a loop around the ignition cylinder thats only energized when the brain is on instead of disabling the passkey system.

anyway, i guess i should show you the install. (or hanging box right now if you want to be technical about it)




the reason i didnt wire the unlock or trunk is because i had an idea, and i need your guys' help before i attempt it. i read in the manual, that as long as you hold unlock or trunk, it will send a continuous signal. so my thought was to give my car a faster cooling method. i want to attempt to wire all the window down wires to the trunk wire for the remote start, so when i hold trunk all the windows go down. i have found 2 problems with this. 1, are the windows controlled by the bcm, or is the switch the last stop before they go down? if its not bcm controlled id have to play with relays which i really dont want to get into. second question is how to i wire it so all 4 dont go down at once with the window switch? ive thought about diodes, but im not really sure how to wire them where i wont be disabling the windows all together.

i attached some pics of the ungodly amount of things i had to take apart just to get to the ign harness.

thanks alot for reading through this guys. i appreciate it.

Yes, the windows are controlled by the BCM, if your drivers window has the auto down feature, you would have to install the same module in every door. Once that is done, you could tie that into the door unlock feature. But, that might not be long enough to activate it though... hmmmm. Lemme go ponder.

Why not just turn the A/C on full when you shut the car off? That will cool your car faster than putting the windows down.

my pos work computer wont let me look it up right now but ive used the express kit security bypass that hooks up to the data bus and the more expensive one will control doors, windows, dome supervision, trunk, oem security disable and others through the data bus

yes it will, but if there is no moving air and its 120 in there itll take forever for the air to get cool enough.

mike; according to the instructions, as long as im holding the button down, it will send one solid signal. ironically enough, for cars with this feature. so im just stuck trying to figure out how to wire it without making it where i turn on all the windows every time i try to roll down just mine. i was thinking maybe a 1 in, 4 out switch but i doubt something like that even exists.

I believe this was discussed years ago on here...somewhere. I think if every door had the module, they all wouldn't go down just by the single switch at the drivers door. Would a single wire from each module to the Bulldog command them all down at once if they all had the modules?

if you want to do it that way it would just be 4 separate relays with whatever controlled them (not sure if it is ground or power) on one side of the load side and the other would go to each window. the control side again would be ground or power Daisy chained together and the output from the box would be the other. to connect to the window you would just solder the wire to it not interrupt it so it would work normal.

The relays are easy to work with and basically all auto starts require relays like for your trunk release you will need to wire a relay to the system. You have 5 prongs on a standard relay. One powers the relay you can have them powered always closed until you hit the button and it opens the circuit and vice versa you can have the relay always open and when you hit the button the circuit closes depending on you cars configuration. When I wired up a Python into my 92 Bonnevville I used four relays. Trunk, brake turn off, dome light and lights on while the auto start is started. Since the brain of the auto start cant distribute 12V you need to use the brain low voltage output to control the relays to distribute the 12 volts needed to control your trunk, driving lights, 12V brake auto start kill and so on.