I'm working on swapping in some project heads on the '98 LeSabre...swap would take place on-car, not on a stand (but this thread is not really so much about the heads themselves...)

Although they cost more, I'm considering ARP head studs over TTY OEM-style bolts for a few reasons:
I've read they allow easier, more precise placement of the head on the block...and I can certainly see where it would be easier to place the heads over studs than fumble with lining up holes and inserting bolts
Also, I don't want to deal with torque-plus-angle (as in TTY), I'd rather just torque to a ft-lb spec.
FInally, these project heads could someday migrate onto the '04 engine, and I like the reuseability of the ARP'*.

Now for my questions...
1) What'* better for seating the ARP'* in the block, teflon tape or thread compound? ARP says "finger tight"...how tight is that really?
2) I've heard the ARP'* require re-torquing after a time...true? Would use of threadlocker (on the nuts) fix that? What if they're used with standard Fel-Pro head gaskets (rather than Cometics or other "exotics")? Would the copper spray help with that at all?
3) I've also read that the ARP'* can cause clearance issues (versus stuff like the firewall, master cylinder, etc.) when installing the heads under-hood, in that the heads of course have to be raised over the studs...anyone find that to be an issue?

I would recommend a thread compound. Bear in mind the head bolts/studs protrude into the cooling jackets, I would not want to loose a some material that could get caught in the radiator. Perhaps a matter of preference more than anything else, but that'* my preference.

If you use thread compound then be sure to only install the studs just before installing and torquing the heads, otherwise if the compound has already cured then you risk breaking the seal when you torque the nuts and then later developing a coolant leak.

Seat the studs all the way with the thread sealant and then just give a good snugging, no significant torque is needed, just tight by hand.

The issue is not the fasteners, it'* the gaskets themselves. In theory all head gaskets need to be retorqued after a few heat/cool cycles but the fact is many don't bother. Part of the reason people skip this step is because the exhaust needs to be removed in order to gain access to the lower fasteners.

Threadlocker is not needed on the nuts for the ARP studs, instead they recommend a moly lube. When torquing, start at 50 ft. lbs, then go to 60, then to 70, then finish at 78 ft. lbs. Don't forget, one if the biggest advantages of the studs is that fine threads are used for the nuts. This, along with the moly lube, gives a nice even consistant torque.

I never tried on my car but I know of two people with GPs that have done this and said there was no trouble at all, plenty of clearance.

I highly recommend the studs for the more even torque alone.

Cheers,

For the clearance issue.. I would measure the height/protrusion of the head in the engine bay when lifted to a height that would clear the studs. I know on the Bonne, there should be plenty of room and also know of a couple GP'rs that use them w/o issues.

I'm actually kind of interested in what you're having done to the heads. I've got a guy building me a couple too. Pretty basic stuff though. He shaved them (along with the intake), some minor porting, 5 angle vavle job, new retainers, locks, new springs (I'm not sure what the rating on the is, but they are difinatly stronger than the stock ones.) I'm not sure if I'm reusing the old valves, or getting new ones, but I do know they are staying stock size. I was thinking about new rockers, but I can't really justify spending the money for them right now. I can always change those out later though.