did you plastiguage it?

Dropped the oil pan, found #2 bearing spun. Last time it was #6. And yes, I labled all rods on proper location durning uninstall and install.

This one is FOOKED!!

I was expecting the typical spun bearing, but this one installed its OWN WALL. Hafta get a pic of it.

EDIT:
Curse'* future is now in debate...

Bummer

Mike:
Sorry to hear this bad news.

While I was at the junk yard yesterday, I inquired about short blocks. Think they said $185 + core for a full dressed engine, and only like $75 for a short block, which would consist of block, crank, and pistons. Which is the only thing I am interested in. I'm willing to give this one more try and see what happens. Going to spend the rest of today stripping my current block down.

Pull the oil pan AT THE WRECKER before you take that short block home. You know why.

With the jy short block, it would be a good idea to regasket everything. Check the condition of the front and rear main oil seals in particular, since changing those gaskets with the engine in the car will be rather tough

Oh, one more thing. Make sure when you get this engine that you secure it real good. Jinx'* donor engine rolled around a bit in my friends pickup bed, and when it came time to turn the engine over by hand...Don and I only got 345* of revolution either way. Reason? Carbon got knocked loose inside the chambers and one cylinder in particular (#6 if I remember right) had enough carbon buildup knocked out of it that it caused the engine to lock up at a certain point in a revolution. But we didn't find THAT out until AFTER we pulled the entire topend (including the heads)

I do?





Correct me if I am wrong, but aren't the 95 L36 and L67 blocks the same?

But aren't the rotating assemblies different?

Get a 95 L36 short block. It shouldn't have ever had DEX in it.

If it'* 96 or newer, check for gunk in the oil pan indicating an UIM failure. Check the 95 the same, but overall, I think a DEX-less block is the safest bet.