2001 SSEi...103k Too High? - Page 2 - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


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Old 09-07-2006, 06:04 PM   #11
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Im very much looking forward to really digging into this car. I will try my mightiest to get them to let me take it overnight if possible. Any tips on getting the price down? I'm BAD at haggling, If I hear "no" I figure thats what they mean. My dad'* a salesman...maybe I can bring him with me for that part of things, if it goes that far.

I know Tax, Title and License will bump it up to $10k or more if it stays at $9600, and I'd like to pay $9500 AFTER all that added on crap.

I'll be trading in my sister in law'* 94 buick skylark, as she is buying my '96. Hopefully I can at least get a grand for that, then put the rest of the cash I get for my 96 down on the 01......
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Old 09-07-2006, 06:54 PM   #12
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NEVER take them seriously when they say the price is firm. I recently just got ripped off when I bought my Bonnie, payed about 500 dollars more than I had to. You need to point out EVERY issue on that car, and you need to come prepared with kbb prices and a carfax report. That'* probably the best you can do... Also, have it checked out by a mechanic (licensed) and have them quote a price for all, if any, repairs needed. Did I miss anything?
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Old 09-07-2006, 07:02 PM   #13
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Wow..... We got our 2001 SSEi with 56K for only about 2 grand more then that......
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Old 09-07-2006, 07:38 PM   #14
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If they are asking $9500 it'* certain they got it for no more than probably $7500. Has the car been for sale for quite a while? Look it over and make note of any problems. Then set a price in your head that you will pay for it, say $9,000. Go in, and don't let on that you want the car, just note the problems it may have. Then if it were me, I'd offer them $7,000. What happens next will give you a good indication of whether they will deal. If they won't budge, you know they probably won't come down much. But if they come back at say $9,000 that'* a good sign. I would then tell them $8,000 and that'* the final offer. From here you can try to dicker some more or try and make the deal, however you want to play the game. Maybe you can meet in the middle at $8,500, not a bad deal. Or you can really play your poker hand and tell them you are leaving. Give them your number and they may call back and agree to your offer. If not and you really want the car, go back a few days later and make the deal. The number one thing is to not let them know you want the car. If they know it, they know you will meet their price.
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Old 09-08-2006, 01:02 AM   #15
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Also...take off the engine cover and look for puddles of fluid (coolant) where the bolts are... some of us have had UIM leaks a lot sooner than 100k miles. It'* not a big deal to replace the gaskets...but still, if there was a leak you could get $$ knocked off the price. Twist off the oil cap/neck and look for signs of coolant contamination. This is something I do on all vehicles, btw...my one son changes vehicles more often than he does girlfriends.
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Old 09-08-2006, 01:18 AM   #16
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I got my 97SE in 1999 with around 24K on it for around $12,000, and just passed 94K. I know there'* a lot of differences here in terms of drivetrains and amenities between both an SE -vs- SSEi and a 96-99 -vs- 00+; but a 5 year old car with 103k? That'* over 20k a year. While I do have to agree with previous posters that ~100K on a 3800 is still young, and an SSEi won't have the L36 intake problems, if you're serious about this car you need to be really thorough about inspecting all the wear-related parts.

In the last year I've had several thousand dollars worth of repairs, including new intakes with upper and lower gaskets, brakes, tires, AC compressor, belt tensioner & belt, power steering pump, plug wires, some vacuum lines, and that sort of thing. I know we're talking about completely different versions of the 3800 engine, but in general these are the types of wear-related repair things you can expect around this area of mileage. Other things like wheel bearings, tie-rods, struts, and that sort of thing are other things to keep an eye out for.

I'd also be concerned about any fluid leaks, so again, inspections are your best resource. My more general advice would be to get a car with less miles, or else have a good rainy-day fund to take care of any unexpected wear-related problems that may crop up as you get into this range of miles.

It is possible that with that many miles the original owner paid a lot of attention to regular maintenance, but you don't have any way to know. It'* also possible that it'* been used hard with minimal maintenance. If you can get any history on it (run a Carfax) that might shed some light on the car'* history. Mine, for example, was an Alamo rental car in Hawaii, so the miles were most likely tourist miles driving around the island, and probably got regular oil changes and maintenance. That'* the kind of thing you want to learn if you can. But I'd say to keep shopping too, you may find something with less miles.
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Old 09-08-2006, 01:18 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by singscountry1967
Also...take off the engine cover and look for puddles of fluid (coolant) where the bolts are... some of us have had UIM leaks a lot sooner than 100k miles. It'* not a big deal to replace the gaskets...but still, if there was a leak you could get $$ knocked off the price. Twist off the oil cap/neck and look for signs of coolant contamination. This is something I do on all vehicles, btw...my one son changes vehicles more often than he does girlfriends.
Being an SSEi it wouldn't have the dreaded UIM problem since the supercharger is in its place. I'm not familiar with the details of the L67, but the area around the lower gaskets might be good to check along with the possibility of coolant/oil contamination like you mentioned.

edit - Bugsi beat me to it
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Old 09-08-2006, 01:54 AM   #18
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often high miles cars seem to always run better but look worse.
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Old 09-08-2006, 11:23 AM   #19
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Just look it over real good like everyone is saying.

And don't be scared about offering low. When I was looking at the Jeep I have now, they were asking something like $8900. I didn't really want it so I offered $6500 out the door. They ended up taking my offer. I'm not saying you will always get this far down, but generally you should be able to get a dealer to come down by at least $500, likely $1000. Remember, if they firmly say "no" then you can still offer more, but once they say "yes" it is nearly impossible to go lower.

Or do what a guy I work with does. He gets his wife to hagle them down as far as she can then he shows up and tells her she can't spend that much and then he gets them to go lower.
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Old 09-08-2006, 12:26 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dillcc
Being an SSEi it wouldn't have the dreaded UIM problem since the supercharger is in its place. I'm not familiar with the details of the L67, but the area around the lower gaskets might be good to check along with the possibility of coolant/oil contamination like you mentioned.

edit - Bugsi beat me to it
Aha!! That is my "learn something new everyday" item for today. Thanks!
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