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Old 10-17-2007, 02:09 PM   #31
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Check it out very closely Frank. Looks can be deceiving. I've had first hand experience getting my 94 road worthy after it sat in my garage for 2 years. To get it on the road safe for my daughter to drive took the following.

94 SSEi (252,000km).

Body perfect
Paint perfect
Tires Needed 2 front ($90 used)
Rear brake lines...rotted.....mechanic fixed with drums turned , and new rear shoes $500
Muffler.....rotted....Replaced along with partial pipe $300
Rear gas lines....fuel sender......gas tank......Rotted.......Mechanic fixed $600
Starter.....Mechanic replaced.....$280
Water Pump.......Mechanic replaced $485
New Battery $95

Now what'* still pending..........Front struts, front brake lines (rotted), transmission (on it'* last leg but still alive and kicking.

So many of those costs above are labour from a mechanic I'm sure you can save, but my point is a good "looking" car may still end up costing you and Mick $2-3K to get it road worthy.

Good luck with your search and possible future project!
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Old 10-17-2007, 04:56 PM   #32
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Mick took it upon himself to take a look at the car to spare me the time in case it wasn't a good deal and he received more info.

It'* a 94
It runs rough therefore the owner believes it needs one of the coils is bad
the owner is a mechanic and it'* at the shop
he says there was a missunderstanding on the price, he wants $600.00.
it has rust.
there are cracks in the rear bumper
no sunroof
the surpentine belt broke the day before
283,000 kilometer
Engine light is on but most likely cause the belt is missing.






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Old 10-17-2007, 05:19 PM   #33
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And heres a video of the car running.




-Mick
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Old 10-17-2007, 05:24 PM   #34
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I would pass unless you need parts. The rust would be enough to scare me off.
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Old 10-17-2007, 10:43 PM   #35
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Yup, I'm not happy about the rust either, I never heard the sound clip, but that doesn't sound health does it? Maybe I'm not hearing it to well.
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Old 10-17-2007, 10:58 PM   #36
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wait its a 94?

didn't CCR start in 95?


other then that... if you can get the car running good and on the road for around $800 or less... i say its worth it...
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Old 10-17-2007, 11:03 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bandit
wait its a 94?

didn't CCR start in 95?
No it started in '94. My '94 had it, but didn't work. I drove a 95 with it that did work, I couldn't feel a difference to make me fix mine.
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Old 10-18-2007, 07:27 AM   #38
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The car probably has it'* original CCR struts. (Mick were both lights on?)
It'* got rust under the paint..you know it very likely has serious cancer underneath
I'd venture to say exhaust leaks as well as something else under the hood.

Boost'* opinion: Keep looking. This is not the car for someone aiming for reliability and low cost.
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Old 10-18-2007, 09:08 AM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BillBoost37
The car probably has it'* original CCR struts. (Mick were both lights on?)
.

Excuse my ignorance but what is "CCR" and which lights were you referring to? The engine light was on most likely because the belt was missing but the ABS light was not on.

Thanks for all your opinions people, we've taken all your advice and decided not to purchase it. I'm fairly mechanically inclined by I suck and hate body work. Bandit, based on the fact that the */C needs a rebuilt, tranny replaced, coil gone, body work, rear bumper cracked, serpentine belt broke I'm going to assume that the car has not been maintained, and can't be repaired for $200.00 therefore it would end up being more then the $800.00 you suggested. Also the kilometers are more than my 95 so that didn't help either.


I have 3 years to find a car for Mick so there'* no hurry.
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Old 10-18-2007, 09:11 AM   #40
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CCR is computer command ride. The struts have a special valving in them to stiffen or soften the ride. The buttons are located to the left of the shifter and right behind the traction control button. If both lights are lit at the same time with the ignition on. one or more components have a problem. Typically it is suggested to replace them with standard struts.

See the hole and in wiring going to the front strut covers? That'* the first key and the buttons are the second. If you pull that cover and see the connectors plugged into the struts, they they are probably original struts.
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