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Forced Induction All questions and problems regarding Superchargers, Turbos, NOS, ZEX, intercoolers, water injection, etc.

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Old 08-02-2003, 08:17 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by G2SSEi95
Steve, I appreciate your concern but I'm goin for it. Last night I had to run to home depot to get that 15/16 socket and I used a 1/2 drive breaker while my buddy held the opposite gear in place. Bolt is out. Also I bought the puller but I had to get different bolts for it bec the bolts supplied were all over 1/4". I had initially got some 1/4' x 6" bolts but of coarse they were too long. I now have purched 1/4 x 3" ajnd some 2" just in case. Im going to go do it now. I want this done 2night....
In that case, I salute your ambition, and I hope the job goes well for you.
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Old 08-02-2003, 08:45 PM   #12
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Ok, problem already. I'm still tryin to remove my crankshaft pulley but the 3' bolts I had would not allow the 3rd to connect so i tried 4" screws. BTW I do have the brand "Lisle" duck foot puller. Now follow me here. Once I get the 1/4" inch screws in then I start to tightn on the main bolt in an attempt to get the pulley off. What happens instead is that the other screws will pop out from the pressure. Is the main bolt on the puller supposed to go inside the center hole of the middle pulley hole where the tight bolt used to be or is the main bolt suppose remain on the outer part of the pulley while tighting down?
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Old 08-02-2003, 09:05 PM   #13
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if they are pulling out, you might have to go to a 2 jaw puller. it is best to have the original bolt in the center , but out about an inch. this way you dont mess the crank threads up with the puller bolt. just in my opinion, GM used too small of bolt holes to remove it. myself , i used a 2 jaw puller and carefully removed it.
i have had some that just slide off by hand, and others that were a B***H to remove.
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Old 08-02-2003, 09:49 PM   #14
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ok I just tried your idea but I have a ques: With the center bolt being in the center abt a inch out is it suposed to be slightly threaded or not threaded at all? I feel like if its slightly threaded it would run through the crank threads from force which would strip and same the other way too. Hmmm. Im gonna try this w/o bolt l want to see if the puller bolt can go in w/o touching the crank threads. i'll be right back!
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Old 08-02-2003, 09:56 PM   #15
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thread the original bolt in about 1/2" . with it in this far, you wont hurt the threads at all
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Old 08-02-2003, 10:10 PM   #16
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Ok here'* what I did. I"m using the 4in bolts. I stuck a 1/4" socket in the hole where the balancer bolt went. The socket allows a smooth surface along the threads even though it isn't touching. It also allows me to get a longer reach out of the main puller bolt. I just want to know now what is at the end of the shaft where the balancer bolt goes. The ratchet is at the stage where its starting to get tight and I want to be sure that too much force will only pull off pulley and not break something on the other end.
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Old 08-02-2003, 10:14 PM   #17
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you wont break it, its a blind hole in the end of the crankshaft.
i use a 1/2 " drive impact to remove mine
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Old 08-02-2003, 10:19 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeffrey10x2
you wont break it, its a blind hole in the end of the crankshaft.
i use a 1/2 " drive impact to remove mine
Do you take it off every weekend for sport ?
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Old 08-02-2003, 10:23 PM   #19
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Is it that hard to turn because I was using a reg 3/8". Do I need to get my 1/2" breaker bar involved?
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Old 08-02-2003, 10:44 PM   #20
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you need to use a bigger bar to turn it
gotta love airtools, a flatrate techs dream
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