Supercharger very noisy!
#21
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Harmonic Balancer
I've got a '95 SSEI and I just had the same symptom. My first thought was the SC because it has some slack and I'm sure the coupler needs repacing. When I pulled the SC belt off, no noise. Pulled off the AC belt and still had the very loud metalic noise. My harmonic balancer was shot. I didn't catch it untill I pulled out the steth and started listening around.
CTJ
CTJ
#22
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Any estimates on the number of hours and cost involved in replacing a Harmonic Balancer? Can this be done by the average shadetree mechanic?
Thanks, Ace.
Thanks, Ace.
#23
Originally Posted by Ace
It took about an hour to get the SC off the motor, another 45 minutes to clean the intake and the SC. If I put my hand on the splines of the SC and turn the pulley with the other hand, there is quite a bit of back and forth play between the two of them. I fairly certain this is not a good thing.
So now I have a new issue... I can't get the damn nose cone off the SC!. The 10mm bolts are so tight that I can about 1/2 of them loose with my hand tools, the others are so tight I'm risking stripping them or rounding them off - another bad thing to say the least.
Does any local to Minneapolis MN have power tools with hammer action to assist with this? I'm more than willing to take the SC for a little ride to accomplish this task... just don't laugh at my wifes minivan.
Regarding the Harmonic Balancer - this makes some sense given the noise is coming from the same general location on the engine. But what puzzles me is if it were the HB the noise would not stop with the removal of the inside SC belt - correct? The HB turns all the time and drives both belts on the vehicle... so if the noise stopped when both belts were removed I would tend to think that the problem is not related to the HB. Unless I'm missing something here... anyone have any input?
So now I have a new issue... I can't get the damn nose cone off the SC!. The 10mm bolts are so tight that I can about 1/2 of them loose with my hand tools, the others are so tight I'm risking stripping them or rounding them off - another bad thing to say the least.
Does any local to Minneapolis MN have power tools with hammer action to assist with this? I'm more than willing to take the SC for a little ride to accomplish this task... just don't laugh at my wifes minivan.
Regarding the Harmonic Balancer - this makes some sense given the noise is coming from the same general location on the engine. But what puzzles me is if it were the HB the noise would not stop with the removal of the inside SC belt - correct? The HB turns all the time and drives both belts on the vehicle... so if the noise stopped when both belts were removed I would tend to think that the problem is not related to the HB. Unless I'm missing something here... anyone have any input?
That play definetly sounds like the coupler. I do also have air tools. If you can get the nose cone to my house I will see what I can do.
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Thanks man. I just posted on your MNBonny site hoping to hear from someone.
Can you send me an email with your contact info and I'll be in touch soon...
Thanks again, Ace.
Can you send me an email with your contact info and I'll be in touch soon...
Thanks again, Ace.
#25
Originally Posted by Ace
Thanks man. I just posted on your MNBonny site hoping to hear from someone.
Can you send me an email with your contact info and I'll be in touch soon...
Thanks again, Ace.
Can you send me an email with your contact info and I'll be in touch soon...
Thanks again, Ace.
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The rotors are loose relative to the pulley... There'* slop and play if you hold the rotors and move the pulley or vise-versa. I haven't got the unit apart yet to see what shape the bearings are in. Will be doing that this afternoon. SSEi95 help is going to help me break loose some of the bolts that are too tight to get off by hand. Will post more later...
Ace
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Thanks to SSEi95 we go the SC opened up and looked inside. The coupler was worn but not very bad. It will be replaced with one from ZZP ASAP.
When I got the unit home I tore it down the rest of the way. I discovered the rotor bearings in the back are worn... and the rotors themselves can be forced together (lightly) so they will 'clack' or touch either in or out of the SC housing. Not only that, but the rotors have scratch marks on them and so does the inside of the SC housing. Because the rotors and the SC walls are aluminum (?) they will scratch easily. Neither of them has real deep marks but they show scratch marks none the less.
This tells me I'm going to have to replace all the bearings in the SC and rebuild it from the ground up.
Questions:
I haven't heard back from Rolling Performance about the parts I want to order (bearings, etc.) Does anyone know how to get in touch with RP or if this is the only source?
Does anyone have detailed instructions on the R&R of the SC bearings?
Does anyone know where I can get the correct bearing pullers and presses?
Can I use standard GM automotive grease in the bearings or do they require a higher grade due to the high RPM'*?
I appreciate all input on this guys... this is getting deep quick!
When I got the unit home I tore it down the rest of the way. I discovered the rotor bearings in the back are worn... and the rotors themselves can be forced together (lightly) so they will 'clack' or touch either in or out of the SC housing. Not only that, but the rotors have scratch marks on them and so does the inside of the SC housing. Because the rotors and the SC walls are aluminum (?) they will scratch easily. Neither of them has real deep marks but they show scratch marks none the less.
This tells me I'm going to have to replace all the bearings in the SC and rebuild it from the ground up.
Questions:
I haven't heard back from Rolling Performance about the parts I want to order (bearings, etc.) Does anyone know how to get in touch with RP or if this is the only source?
Does anyone have detailed instructions on the R&R of the SC bearings?
Does anyone know where I can get the correct bearing pullers and presses?
Can I use standard GM automotive grease in the bearings or do they require a higher grade due to the high RPM'*?
I appreciate all input on this guys... this is getting deep quick!
#30
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Rolling Performance WILL get back to you. He'* quick about that normally.
There are alot of tips and tricks in the Forced Induction forum for all this work. It'* going to take some patience on your part, but you've got good help around you.
You'll need to rent or buy a puller, and borrow a press. Most automotive machine shops will have what you need, and it may pay to have them do it for 20 bucks or so. They're the pro'*.
The needle bearings for the SC rotors are pre-greased. Don't use anything other than what'* in them. It'* special-magic-happy grease. VERY expensive stuff.
(Rheotemp 500)
There are alot of tips and tricks in the Forced Induction forum for all this work. It'* going to take some patience on your part, but you've got good help around you.
You'll need to rent or buy a puller, and borrow a press. Most automotive machine shops will have what you need, and it may pay to have them do it for 20 bucks or so. They're the pro'*.
The needle bearings for the SC rotors are pre-greased. Don't use anything other than what'* in them. It'* special-magic-happy grease. VERY expensive stuff.
(Rheotemp 500)