there needs to be a "STICKY" topic or something about this......this always comes up (i know i brought it up too once)

the tech info isn't enough

okay i agree, my internals will bust after a year or so of 14 psi, like i said, there weak, and that is axaclyyy why i stuck with the D series engine, an entire engine and tranny cost me $300 bux , why not.....

damn im too tired to talk about my buddys bonni now, but i wish i knew about these bonnies, ill take your guys word for it, i konw how to swap my $14 pistons in and out when they snap after a years worth of beatin'

The internals of a D15 engine are as follows: The crank is forged.....that'* how Honda makes them durable and the rods and pistons are so small, high stress can be tolerated. Plus their block/head is all aluminum so it dissapates heat well.

The L36 was never set up this way to begin with. Some of the L67 internals can be swapped for the same effect, but the whole point is that it'* more complicated than just 'bolting up' any SC. This is true on almost ANY car. Some here have done it, but if the right steps aren't taken, bad things happen. If you're willing to deal with the bad things, go for it! If nothing else, it'll be a learning experience

hmmmmmmmmmm you have a blow-off vavle on a supercharged motor with an intercooler.... funny thing to do to a SC motor ...tell me why????/

I have a bypass valve, wich lets me switch from n/a to boost at the flip of a switch, while the bypass valve is there i thought that i might as well make it a blow off valve also so that boost does not back up in the pipes. The intercooler is in place so that it coos'* and compresses the air, or whatever it does, it lets the air expand and then contract, wich i forgot what the advantage of that is but i know it does a little good ,pretty much, i got the IC for free so i just hooked it up...

what are you lost about ? the intercooler part ? the bypass/bov part ? the electromagnetic clutch part ? the front mount blower part ? how my fuel map can switch from n/a to boost any time ? how they bypass acts as a bov and a bypass.

Here is a video of my baby rollin, turn the volume up, this sc screams like no other
http://home.everestkc.net/cvogt/DCP_1165.MOV

Heres my free vw corrado IC
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mk, i have one pipe comming out of my intake manny, about 3 inches long approx. then that pipe Y'* off into two pipes, the n/a pipe goes about 3 inches then i have a valve there, then about 3 inches after that i have a filter, that pipe is the n/a pipe, the other pipe goes down to the intercooler, then from the ic it goes strait to the blower, then on the blower i have a mercedees blower intake manny wich i have a filter attached to it right behind my grill... on the blower i have an electromagnetic clutch, and i have the blower attached to the existing a/c bracket mount by a custom aluminum bracket. The electromagnetic clutch is there so that i can engage the rotors or disingage the rotors, ie the blower pully can spin freely or it can sprin the rotors. The elctromagnetic clutch engages when i turn my switch on or off. i can set the valve to close or open at any throttle i want , i found that its best engauged at WOT for better handling around corners, so at WOT the bypass valve closes and just lets the boost pipe fly into the engine. I have a stand alone engine managment system where i can write my own fuel maps, for the n/a map and the boosted map. the system piggybacks off the ecu, when the ecu reads n/a air pressure it uses the n/a side of the map, when the ecu reads boosted air levels it switches to the boosted side of the fuel map...